This is a translation of Heidi Lahtinen's booklet on bringing up and training a Spitz puppy. It is pre-publication and will be in pdf format with pagination and photos. in due course.
Copyright spj.
``A guide for new puppy owners 2008
from puppy to hunting dog
A Finnish Spitz Breeds Club
(Suomen Pystykorvajärjestö - Finska Spetsklubben ry)
publication
Editor in chief, chairman:
Risto Ylitalo
Editor and artwork:
Heidi Lahtinen, Kattilajoentie 324,
81295 Haapalahti, puh. 050 543 0198
English Translation
Angela Cavill
Membership secretary:
Soile Torvinen, Lindalintie 6 B 10,
02400 Kirkkonummi, puh. 0400 900 886
soile.torvinen@gmail.com
Printers: Suomen Graafiset Palvelut Oy, PL 25,
70701 Kuopio, tel. 017 - 266 7600
Contents:
Greetings from the Chairman
An introduction to Suomen Pystykorvajärjestö (The Finnish Spitz Breeds Club)
Finnish Spitz Breed Standard
Karelian Bear Dog Breed Standard
Nordic Spitz Breed Standard
Control of hereditary defects (PEVISA)
Suspension of inclusion of native bred Nordic Spitz into the breed register
Do you value the breeder's honesty?
Choosing a puppy
Kennel and run or running line? And what kind of kennel?
A basic kennel
Epilepsy in Finnish Spitz
Early puppy training
Bicycling with your Spitz
Stages of puppy development
Show Training
Winning into VOI (winner 1) trials class depends on show results
To the show!
Training a barking bird dog
From puppy to elk hunter
The dog's medicine chest
Anal gland problems
False pregnancy
Feeding a growing puppy
Feeding during the hunting season
The ABC of LINT (bird) and HIRV (elk) trials
LINT trials in a nutshell
A HIRV trial - what is it?
The urge to hunt bear
When things do not turn out as they should
Do you know about the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club's wines?
Finnish Spitz Breeds Working Committees
Becoming a Member
Product Sales
COVER PHOTO: EERO REPO
‘A Guide for new puppy owners' is a Finnish Spitz Breeds Club production, intended to support and help new Finnish Spitz, Karelian Bear Dog or Nordic Spitz owners in their rewarding activities.
2nd Finnish edition January 2008
English Edition - 2008
As the Finnish hunting culture has its own ancient characteristics hunting terms have been translated as used in the Finnish (eg. ‘hunting' as opposed to ‘shooting')
Chairman:
Risto Ylitalo, Hankitie 8 A, 87500 Kajaani,
puh.044 274 8636
risto.ylitalo@sentraali.fi
Secretary:
Pertti Korhonen, Nakertajantie 79, 87830 Nakertaja,
puh.(08) 613 2060, 0400 680 395
peko@kekkeruusi.net
Treasurer and bookkeeper:
Markku Nikkinen, Latvalantie 149, 84100 Ylivieska
puh.(08) 423 394, meloni@dlc.fi
SPJ:n tili: KSOP Kouvola 575001-274084
Club Sales:
Annukka Pirinen, Eevastiinantie 5, 40500 Jyväskylä,
puh.040 828 1489
Shop on the web: www.haukku.net
Internet-pages: http://www.spj.fi
Finnish Spitz Breeds Club's breed sections:
Finnish Spitz Section:
Chairman: Timo Kettunen, Kuttulantie 89, 52700 Mäntyharju,
puh. 050 346 1841, operatum@pp.inet.fi
Karelian Bear Dog Section:
Chairman:Vesa Väänänen, Reijolantie 16, 80330 Reijola,
puh. 0400 577 211, v.vaananen@kolumbus.fi
Nordic Spitz Section:
Chairman: Jari Lehtonen, Leppäkuja 1, 91100 Ii
puh. 040 535 447, jari.a.lehtonen@pp.inet.fi
Greetings from the Chairman
I should like to congratulate you on behalf of Finnish Spitz Breeds Club and all our breed enthusiasts on your choice of dog! Whichever of the three beautiful Spitz that come under the mantle of the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club your choice may be, it is a great choice of family member. Above all our breeds are working dogs well characterized by their eagerness to hunt and the game blood in their veins.
As well as their working character all of our breeds are suitable as house dogs - if they are well treated they are also the best of family pets and are very faithful to their owner and his family.
This faithfulness is truly integral to our breeds' characters. However, as keen hunting companions our dogs always know who their owner is. This trust between man and dog builds from the first days and weeks onwards at home, on walks and also while the dog is being familiarized with the forest - an environment in which our breeds feel at home.
The Finnish Spitz Breeds Club (SPJ) exists to act on behalf of our breeds' enthusiasts. From this expertise you can obtain a great deal of valuable information about our breeds, their working characteristics and potential as well as matters of health and breeding. The SPJ works as a special interest group to further all matters concerning Finnish Spitz, Karelian Bear Dogs and Nordic Spitz and promotes them as a national choice of the best elk and bird hunting dogs. I can promise you that you will not regret your choice. Even if your dog does not necessarily become the most persistent elk barker or does not necessarily like big game or is unable to find the game bird in the tree I am absolutely certain that every time the dog is let off in the forest his owner will find it stimulating - the spitz expression and actions alone tell his owner so much. Enjoy your dog and make him part of your family and in return you will get a pleasant dog whose looks will also arouse the interest of neighbours, friends and passers by.
It also pays to join the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club, which will give you all the necessary information and help concerning our breeds, and enable you to get the best out of working with them. We Club officials are all pleased to help you, which is good to remember in time of trouble.
I wish you and your spitz rewarding times.
Risto Ylitalo
Have you joined the SPJ (Finnish Spitz Breeds Club) yet?
For the bargain-price membership fee you will receive:
‘Pystykorva' magazine posted to your home 6 times a year
Free breed advice and litter information
Reduced puppy registration
30% off your adverts
(individual adverts, not business)
In order to get a Finnish Kennel name you have to be a member of the breed organisation.
It is easy to join by filling in and sending off the form on page 62 of this booklet or alternatively on the web at
www.spj.fi → liity jäseneksi (become a member) → jäsenlomake (membership form)
Breeder offer:
If the breeder pays once for a puppy buyer who is not already a SPJ member, the first year's fee is 17 euros for the new member.
Membership register and change of address:
Soile Torvinen
Lindalintie 6 B 10
02400 KIRKKONUMMI
FINLAND
tel: (0) 400 900 886
Membership fees 2008
Annual Membership 22 euros
Family member 14 ..
(one magazine per family)
Life membership
(over 60 years) 220 ..
Associated organisations 29 ..
Breeder offer (litter) 17 ..
Suomen Pystykorvajärjestö -
Finska Spetsklubben ry
(The Finnish Spitz Breeds Club)
The Finish Spitz Breeds Club (SPJ-FSK for short) is one of Finland's oldest Breed Clubs. It was founded in 1938 and at this point in time it is under the wing of the Finnish Kennel Club, its main purpose being the cherishing of our native, indigenous natural breeds: the Finnish Spitz and Karelian Bear Dog, together with the Nordic Spitz which has been developed in conjunction with Sweden.
The Finnish Spitz Breeds Club's most important task is to take care of Finland's living cultural heritage, its four-legged national treasure, by preserving, cherishing and developing it. Throughout the world as a whole it is rare that a breed of dog evolves from nature without cross-breeding. The Finnish Spitz Breeds Club represents three such breeds: The Finnish Spitz, which was declared our National Breed in 1979, the handsome Karelian Bear Dog and, from the Nordic Arctic area, the Nordic Spitz.
The Club's membership has risen steadily and by the end of 2006 had reached nearly 5,900.
Administration and Breed Sub-Committees
The SPJ's committee consists of an annually elected Chairman and nine members who are elected every three years. At the same time as these nine are elected, members who will substitute for them when necessary are also elected. The committee members represent four areas: east, south, west and north and as far as possible the three different breeds.
Each of the three breeds has its own sub-committee which comprises a Chairman and 4 - 5 members. These sub-committees prepare proposals pertaining to their breeds and bring them before the main committee for their decision. The sub-committees also, among other things, propose their breed's breeding and litter advisors annually, keep an eye on their breed's working characteristics and the development of its appearance as well as attaching great importance to their goal of improving their breed's health and breeding programme with the help of PEVISA (the programme against hereditary faults and illnesses).
The breed sub-committees are also represented on their own web pages, The link to these can be found on the SPJ home page at: www.spj.fi.
Winterdays
The main annual event organised by the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club is the 'Winterdays' (Talvipäivät) which is held in March. This two-day event comprises the AGM on the first day and the main Breed Club Show on the second. The breed sub-comittees also arrange meetings before the start of the AGM at which they report on their breed's current situation.
Breed Advice
Our Club gives free advice to members. A bitch's owner can ask for recommendations of a suitable mate, in which event the Breed Advisory Group puts in writing the names of several dogs who would be a good match for the bitch. When making these recommendations the advisor will take into account possible inherited faults as well as the chances of improving both the appearance and working ability and the lessening of the risk of illness. It is also important to maintain genetic diversity thus lowering the paired dogs' inbreeding co-efficient. The Breed Advisors can also give their blessing to a mating decided on by the breeder himself, assuming that this fulfils the demands laid down by the Club.
Each of the three breeds has its own breeder and litter advisors to whom breed enthusiasts can turn for advice. Their names can be found at the back of this booklet, and rolling up to date news can be found on the Club's web pages at: www.spj.fi.
Publications
Six times a year the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club publishes its ‘Pystykorva' magazine which, as well as being interesting, is a pack of expert knowledge for every hunting spitz enthusiast. This members' magazine gives hints on the dogs' feeding, health care and training, it conveys the authentic atmosphere of autumn's important competitions and publishes members' own articles giving insight into hunting and nature experiences with their dogs.
As well as 'Pystykorva' the SPJ regularly publishes fascinating historical and other information pertaining to the breeds.
6
FINNISH SPITZ (Suomenpystykorva)
ORIGIN: Finland.
UTILIZATION: A hunting dog mainly for forest game birds, also predatory small game, waterfowl and elk. Eager hunter; rather independent, yet works co-operatively to game, marking game by barking.
BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY: The origin of the Finnish Spitz is unknown. However it is known that hundreds of years ago dogs of the same type as Finnish Spitz were already being used for all game hunting over the whole country. Originally the main goal was to develop a dog which barked well at game up in trees and was also beautiful. When acceptance to the breed register started in the 1890:s, individuals similar in type and usage were found mainly in the eastern and northern parts of the country. The first standard was established in 1892. The first speciality show was held the same year and the first bird-hunting trial in 1897. Today the breed is very common in both Finland and Sweden. It has been developed from pure natural stock and is an essential part of the Finnish culture. The Finnish Spitz was named as the National Dog of Finland in 1979.
GENERAL APPEARANCE: Smaller than medium-sized, almost square. In conformation lean, firm and carries itself well.
IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS: The length of the body is the same as the height at the withers. The depth of the chest is slightly less than half of the height at the withers. The ratio between the muzzle and skull is approximately 3:4. The skull is a little broader than long; its breadth is the same as its depth.
BEHAVIOUR / TEMPERAMENT: Lively, vigorous, brave and determined. Possibly a little reserved towards strangers, but never vicious.
HEAD
CRANIAL REGION:
Skull: Viewed from above egg-shaped broadening gradually towards the ears, broadest between the ears. Viewed from the front and in profile the skull is slightly convex. The upper axes of the skull and muzzle are almost parallel. The frontal furrow is very shallow. The superciliary ridges and the occiput are slightly visible.
Stop: Not very pronounced, the angle between the nasal bridge and the skull is clearly marked.
FACIAL REGION:
Nose: Rather small, jet-black.
Muzzle: Narrow, clean, viewed from above and in profile evenly tapering. The nasal bridge is straight. The lower jaw is clearly visible.
Lips: Tight, rather thin and close fitting. Good pigmentation.
Jaws/Teeth: The jaws are strong. The teeth are well developed and symmetrical; normal dentition. Tight scissor bite.
Cheeks: The zygomatic arches are slightly emphasized.
Eyes: Medium-sized, almond-shaped, slightly oblique and preferably dark. The expression is lively and alert.
Ears: Set rather high, always erect. Rather small sized, pointed, very mobile and covered with fine hair.
NECK: Muscular; it appears to be rather short in males due to the thick ruff, of medium length in bitches. Throat without dewlap.
BODY:
Withers: Clearly defined, especially in males.
Back: Rather short, straight and muscular.
Loin: Short and muscular.
Croup: Of medium length, well developed and slightly sloping.
Chest: Deep, reaching almost the elbows, not very broad. The ribs are slightly arched; the fore chest clearly visible, not very broad.
Lower line: Slightly tucked up.
TAIL: Curved vigorously forward from the set-on tightly along the back, down-and slightly backwards pressed against the upper thigh, the tip of the tail reaches to the middle of the upper thigh. When straightened reaches approximately down to the hocks.
LIMBS
FOREQUARTERS:
General appearance: Viewed from the front straight and parallel. The bone is of medium strength. The upper arm is a little shorter than the shoulder blade and the forearm.
Shoulders: Firm, very mobile and relatively straight.
Upper arm: A little shorter than the shoulder blade. Slightly sloping and strong.
Elbows: Placed in front of a vertical line drawn from the highest point of the shoulder blade; pointing straight backwards.
Forearm: Rather strong, vertical.
Metacarpus (Pastern): Of medium length, slightly sloping.
Forefeet: Roundish cat-feet. Toes tight and well arched. Pads elastic, always black, the sides covered with dense hair.
HINDQUARTERS:
General appearance: Strong, viewed from behind straight and parallel, medium angulation. The bone is of medium strength. The upper thigh is slightly longer than the second thigh.
Upper thigh: Of medium length, rather broad with well-developed muscles.
Stifle: Pointed forward, medium angulation.
Second thigh: Muscular.
Hock joints: Set moderately low, medium angulation.
Metatarsus (Hock): Rather short, strong and vertical.
Hind feet: A little longer than the front feet, otherwise the same. The dewclaws should be removed.
GAIT/MOVEMENT: Light, covering the ground effortlessly. Changes easily from trot to gallop, which is the most natural style of movement. The legs move parallel. When rushing after game, he bursts explosively into a fast gallop.
SKIN: Tight overall without wrinkles.
COAT
HAIR: Rather long on the body, semi-erect or erect, stiffer on the neck and back. On the head and the legs, except at the back of the hindquarters, short and close-lying. The stiff hair on the shoulders, especially in males, is noticeably longer and coarser. On the back of the thighs (trousers) and on the tail the hair is long and dense. The undercoat is short, soft, dense and light in colour.
COLOUR: The hair on the back is red-or golden brown, preferably bright. A lighter shade inside the ears, on the cheeks, throat, chest, belly, inside the legs, back of the thighs and on the tail. A white stripe on the chest and small white markings on the feet are permitted.
SIZE AND WEIGHT:
Height at withers: Ideal height for males 47 cm,
Ideal height for females 42 cm.
With a tolerance of ± 3 cm.
Weight: Males 12 - 13 kg,
Bitches 7 - 10 kg.
FAULTS: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
- Heavy head.
- Coarse muzzle.
- Weak under jaw.
- Ears pointing forward in a sharp angle, leaning sideways or close together at the tips, curving backwards or ears that are long-haired inside.
- Slack or too tightly curved tail.
- Too flexible in pasterns.
- Long, soft, too short or close-lying coat.
- Clearly defined diversity of colours.
DISQUALIFYING FAULTS:
- Aggressive or overly shy.
- Flesh-coloured nose.
- Overshot or undershot mouth.
- Eyes bright yellow or wall eye.
- Ears with drooping tips.
- Kinky tail.
- Wavy or curly coat.
- Colour shades differing clearly from the basic colour.
- Large white markings on the chest and/or a white sock.
Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified.
N.B.: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Finnish Kennel Club.
DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD: 12.03.1999.
CLASSIFICATION F.C.I.: Group 5 Spitz and primitive types.
Section 2 Nordic Hunting Dogs.
FCI No. 49
With working trial only for Nordic countries (Sweden, Norway, Finland).
KARELIAN BEAR DOG
(Karjalankarhukoira)
ORIGIN: Finland.
UTILIZATION: A dog mainly for elk and bear hunting, holds the game at bay. Eager hunter; very independent, yet works cooperatively to game, marking game by barking. The senses, especially of scent, are keen, thus the breed is suitable for big game hunting. Very good sense of direction.
BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY: The Komi dog, also called the dog of Zyrians, is considered to be the origin of the breed. However, the basic stock dogs originated from the Ladoga's Karelia, Olonets and Russian Karelia, where they were used for all different types of game hunting. The breeding was started in 1936 with the goal to create a sturdy dog which barks at big game. The first standard was established in 1945. The first dogs were registered in 1946. Today the breed is common in Finland.
GENERAL APPEARANCE: Medium sized, robust conformation, strong, only slightly longer than the height at the withers, with dense coat and pricked ears.
IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS: The length of the body is only slightly longer than the height at the withers. The depth of the body is about the half of the height at the withers. The ratio between muzzle and skull is approximately 2 : 3. The length of the skull is about the same as its breadth and depth.
BEHAVIOUR / TEMPERAMENT: Balanced, slightly reserved, courageous and persistent. Very self-confident, may be aggressive towards other dogs, but never towards people. Highly developed fighting spirit.
HEAD: Viewed from the front triangular in shape.
CRANIAL REGION:
Skull: Broad; viewed from the front and in profile slightly convex. Broadest between the ears. The frontal furrow is barely visible. The superciliary ridges are only slightly developed.
Stop: Not very pronounced, rather long, arched gradually towards the skull.
FACIAL REGION:
Nose: Large, black in colour.
Muzzle: Deep, tapering only slightly towards the nose. The nasal bridge is straight.
Lips: Rather thin and tight.
Jaws/Teeth: The jaws are very strong. The teeth are well developed and symmetrical; normal dentition. Tight scissor bite.
Cheeks: The zygomatic arches are strong.
Eyes: Rather small, slightly oval. Brown of different shades, never yellow. The expression is alert and fiery.
Ears: Erect, set rather high, medium sized with slightly rounded tips.
NECK: Muscular; of medium length, arched and covered with profuse hair. Without dewlap.
BODY:
Withers: Clearly defined, especially in males, less defined in bitches.
Back: Straight and muscular.
Loin: Short and muscular.
Croup: Broad, strong and slightly sloping.
Chest: Spacious, not very broad, rather long, reaching approximately to the elbows. The ribs are slightly arched; the forechest clearly visible, yet not very broad.
Lower line: Slightly tucked up.
TAIL: High set, of medium length, curved over the back, the tip of the tail touching the body on either side or on the back. A natural bobtail is permitted.
LIMBS
FOREQUARTERS:
General appearance: Strong with strong bone. Viewed from the front straight and parallel. The upper arm and the shoulder blade are equal in length, the forearm is slightly longer.
Shoulders: Relatively oblique, muscular.
Upper arm: Slightly oblique and strong.
Elbows: Pointing straight backwards, placed on the vertical line drawn from the highest point of the shoulder blade.
Forearm: Strong and vertical.
Metacarpus (Pastern) : Of medium length, slightly oblique.
Fore feet: Tight, well-arched, roundish and pointing forward. Pads springy, the sides covered with dense hair.
HINDQUARTERS:
General appearance: Strong and muscular, viewed from behind straight and parallel. The front line of the hind limb is evenly arched.
Upper thigh: Broad and long with strong muscles.
Stifle: Pointing forward, medium angulation.
Second thigh: Long and muscular.
Hock: Low; angulation clearly visible.
Metatarsus: Short, strong and vertical.
Hind feet: Tight, slightly longer and less arched than the front feet. Pads springy, the sides covered with dense hair.
GAIT/MOVEMENT: Light, ground covering and effortless. Changes easily from trot to gallop, which is the most natural style of movement. The legs move parallel.
SKIN: Tight overall without wrinkles.
COAT
HAIR: Outer coat harsh and straight. On the neck, back and backside of the upper thighs longer than elsewhere. The undercoat is soft and dense.
COLOUR: Black, may be dull or shaded with brown. Most individuals have clearly defined white markings on the head, neck, chest, belly and the legs.
SIZE AND WEIGHT:
Height at withers: Ideal height for males 57 cm,
Ideal height for females 52 cm.
With a tolerance of ± 3 cm.
Weight: Males 25 - 28 kg,
Bitches 17 - 20 kg.
FAULTS: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
- Light in bone.
- Narrow skull.
- Strongly bulging forehead.
- Snipey muzzle.
- Yellow eyes.
- Soft or bat ears.
- Dewlap.
- Too deep or barrel shaped ribcage.
- Straight or insufficiently curved tail.
- Straight shoulders.
- Straight hocks and flat feet.
- Dewclaws on hind legs.
- Wavy coat.
- Predominantly white colour with black markings or some so called wolf hair.
ELIMINATING FAULTS:
- Aggressiveness towards people.
- Overshot or undershot mouth.
- Wall eye.
- Ears hanging or with drooping tips.
- Other colours than allowed in the standard.
Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified.
N.B.: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Finnish Kennel Club.
DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD: 12.03.1999.
CLASSIFICATION F.C.I.: Group 5 Spitz and primitive types.
Section 2 Nordic Hunting Dogs.
FCI no. 48
Working trial only for the Nordic countries (Sweden, Norway, Finland).
POHJANPYSTYKORVA
(Norrbottenspitz or Nordic Spitz)
ORIGIN: Sweden.
UTILIZATION: Bird hunting dog.
GENERAL APPEARANCE: Small, squarish spitz dog, tightly built, with dry, powerful muscles. The dog should be of very good structure, the head carried high and fearless. The dog should be extremely mobile. Difference in body structure due to sex should be well marked. The ideal dog should give the impression of a typical, small spitz dog, very alert and attentive, with good balance and temperament.
BEHAVIOUR/ CHARACTER: As a hunting dog, the Norrbottenspitz should be attentive and daring, giving impression of alertness, activity, kindness and self-confidence. Never nervous, shy or aggressive.
HEAD: Strong, dry, well shaped and viewed from side and above wedge-shaped.
CRANIAL REGION:
Skull: Moderately wide and rather flat; the forehead is slightly arched. The superciliary arches should be well marked.
Stop: Well, but moderately marked.
FACIAL REGION:
Nose: Black.
Muzzle: Moderately long, sharply tapering. Its length is half the length of the head or somewhat shorter.
Nasal bridge: Straight.
Lips: Thin, dry and tightly fitting.
Teeth: Scissor bite with well developed teeth.
Eyes: Moderately large, almond-shaped and obliquely set. Dark brown, bright. Expression calm and energetic.
Ears: High set, slightly over medium size and stiffly erect. Tips slightly rounded.
NECK: Moderately long, dry and muscular, slightly arched; carried erect.
BODY: Depth of body ( the vertical distance from highest point of withers to lowest point of chest ) should be about half the total height at withers.
Back: Short, strong, muscular and elastic. Viewed from side slightly sloping over the withers and then straight.
Loins: Short and broad.
Croup: Moderately long and broad, slightly sloping and with well developed muscles.
Chest: Moderately deep and long. Forechest well developed and well marked. Front of normal width. Viewed from side, the lowest part of the ribcage should reach just below the elbows and softly merge into the belly line.
Belly: Moderately tucked up.
TAIL: Proportionately high set, carried in a fairly high curve, loosely curled with the tip of tail touching side of upper thigh. The length of the tail should not reach below hock. Bobtail not allowed.
LIMBS
FOREQUARTERS:
Shoulder-blade: Long and broad, with well developed crest and muscles. Close fitting to chest and proportionately set obliquely.
Upper arm: Should be the same length as shoulder-blade, strong, well fitting to chest but permitting free movement, forming a marked angle with the crest of the shoulder-blade.
Elbows: Directed backwards.
Forearm: Straight, strong bones, lean but flexible muscles.
Pastern joint and Pastern: Strong, forming a straight line with the forearm, when viewed from front. The pastern slightly sloping, viewed from side.
Forefeet: Small, strong, pointing straight forward, well arched and tight, with well developed, solid pads.
HINDQUARTERS: Hind legs parallel viewed from behind.
Thighs: Proportionately long, forming a right angle with the pelvis. Strong muscles.
Stifle: Strong.
Lower thigh: Forming a marked angle to the upper thigh.
Hock: Broad and strong, viewed from front and side.
Rear-pastern: Dry, elastic and rather long.
Hind feet: As forefeet. Pointing straight forward.
GAIT/MOVEMENT: Norrbottenspitz should, in canter and trot, show smooth, even movement with great drive, covering the ground well. The top-line must stay firm. Hind legs must be parallel in action.
COAT
HAIR: Hard, short, straight and rather close fitting, with fine and dense undercoat. Short on nasal bridge, skull, ears and front of legs, longer on neck, back of thighs and underneath the tail.
COLOUR: All colours permitted. Ideal colour is white with yellow or red/brown markings.
HEIGHT:
Ideal height at the withers: Males: 45 cm,
Females: 42 cm.
FAULTS: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified.
N.B.: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
up dated by Dr. Paschoud.
DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD: 22.07.1982.
CLASSIFICATION F.C.I.: Group 5 Spitz and primitive types.
Section 2 Nordic hunting dogs.
FCI no. 276
With working trial.
Control of hereditary faults and illnesses
Local dog clubs may arrange mass PEVISA screening events
A programme has been established to counter the hereditary faults and weaknesses of all three of the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club's breeds. This is the so-called PEVISA programme (PE=perinnöllinen, ie hereditary, VI=vika, ie faults, SA=sairaus, ie illnesses). PEVISA specifications are complimentary to the Finnish Kennel Club's registration programme.
If a Finnish Spitz, Karelian Bear Dog or Nordic Spitz does not fulfill the compulsory PEVISA regulations specific to its breed then the Finnish Kennel Club does not as a rule accept its progeny for registration.
If the result of a compulsory breed examination has an effect on the registration (above limit or an illness or fault excluding the dog from breeding purposes) then the examination report must be valid at the time of the mating.
In all other cases the only way to register a litter on a special exemption register (FI/ER) is when authorization has been given by the breed organisation. A higher registration fee may be charged for these puppies.
In addition to compulsory examination the breed organisation may give recommendations concerning dogs used for breeding. Recommendations as such do not prevent the registration of the puppies but the breed advisors do not promote the breeding of those dogs that do not fulfill the recommendations. The organisation does not promote the progeny of such dogs either.
The dog must have identification such as a chip or a tattoo in accordance with Finnish Kennel Club regulations.
A report in accordance with the PEVISA programme can only be given by a Kennel Club approved vet/expert.
Compulsory health checks for Finnish Spitz and Nordic Spitz include those of the patella and eye.
Karelian Bear Dogs must have their hips x-rayed and eyes checked before they can be used for breeding.
Abbreviations and definitions of hereditary illnesses:
HC = hereditary grey cataract
PRA = hereditary form of progressive retinal atrophy
PHTVL/PHPV = developmental disorder of the eye caused by a retained embryonic blood vessel
RD = hypoplasia of retina
Patella luxation = dislocation the patella. Patella luxation is usually caused by faulty construction of the whole hind leg.
HD = hip dysplasia, a developmental disorder in the hip joint is usually hereditary in larger breeds which, when the score is higher, can cause disability and pain
source: www.kennelliitto.fi
Additional information:
www.spj.fi > spk/terveys, kkk/jalostusasiat, ppk/jalostus
www.kennelliitto.fi > jalostus ja kasvatus (breeding and rearing) > tutkimukset (examinations)
Information on dates and venues of mass health checks can be found on the SPJ internet pages at www.pystykorva.info
Finnish Spitz
01.01.2009-31.12.2013
After a first litter and before the second, both dogs and bitches must have both patella and eye certification before their next puppies can be registered. The dog and bitch must be over 12 months of age at the time of the patella check. Progeny of a dog having HC, PRA or PHTVL/PHPV degrees 2-6 would not be registered. The limit for registration as regards patella luxation is at stage 1.
One dog can have 70 registered puppies at the most. The litter where this limit is exceeded will be registered as a whole.
The inbreeding co-efficient allowed for Finnish Spitz must not exceed 6.25% over seven generations. Calculations by the Kennel Club take into account known ancestors.
The dog must be older than 12 months and be indelibly micro-chipped or tattooed when the examinations are carried out.
Breeding recommendations set by the breed organisation
A dog is not recommended for breeding if
- its progeny show signs of PRA.
- its progeny includes two or more cases of HC or PHTVL/PHPV.
- it has patella luxation of the first degree or there is more than the breed average of this fault in its progeny.
An eye check is recommended 36 months after the first test.
Dogs imported from abroad Imported from abroad, and registered there
must have eye and patella examinations before being mated for the first time for them to be recommended for breeding.
If a dog is found to have patella luxation of the first degree and there is a sound reason for using it for breeding, then its mate must be examined for the same characteristics and must be confirmed to be completely healthy.
The Club recommends eye and patella examinations of dogs before an application for their championship status is made to the Finnish Kennel Club.
Breed advisory groups, sections of the breed organisation, have control over breeding recommendations.
Breeding bans
A dog is banned from breeding (ie the Kennel Club will not register the progeny) when it is found to have the following faults:
HC (hereditary grey cataract)
PRA (hereditary form of progressive retinal atrophy)
PHTVL/PHPV (developmental disorder of the eye caused by a retained embryonic blood vessel degree 2-6)
Patella luxation (dislocation the patella degree 2 - 4)
The dog can be given a status of "not for breeding" if it has been proven to pass on hereditary diseases more than the average for the breed taking into account at least five of its litters. The breed club will notify the Finnish Kennel Club (SKL) of this and the board of SKL will verify it and put the notion into action.
This ban takes effect when the dog's owner has received a veterinary certificate stating that the dog has a condition which causes a ban for breeding or has received such a decision from the SKL's board. After this any puppies which may be born will not be registered.
Cancellation of the ban
This ban on dogs with eye disease caused by hereditary factors can be removed if the Finnish Kennel Club's eye inspection panel finds that the dog is not affected with the condition in question.
Costs
The dog's owner will bear the cost of the research.
All pedigree dogs used for breeding
must carry identification
(tattoo or microchip).
Karelian Bear Dog
01.01.2008 - 31.12.2012
The prospective sire and dam must have both hip dysplasia and eye examination certification BEFORE THE MATING.
- At the time of these tests the dog must be at least 12 months old.
- An eye examination is valid for 36 months.
- A dog with stages 2-6 of HC, PRA or PHTVL/PHPV cannot have its puppies registered. For hip dysplasia the limit for registration is level C.
- One dog can have one hundred registered puppies at the most. The litter where this limit is exceeded will be registered as a whole.
- A dog which has 50 puppies is not recommended for breeding again until it has had a new eye examination and been confirmed clear on reaching the age of 5 years.
Nordic Spitz
01.01.2006 - 31.12.2009
Decision of the governing board of the Finnish Kennel Club 18.8.2005 (7/2005) § 121.6
The board has approved the following breed specific PEVISA programme for the Nordic Spitz:
At the time of mating there must be examination certificates for patellas and eyes of both parents.
An eye test is valid for 36 months. Progeny of a dog having degrees 3-6 of HC, PRA or PHTVL/PHPV will not be registered. In the case of patella luxation the limit for registration is degree 1.
One dog can have only 27 puppies in its lifetime. The litter where this limit is exceeded will be registered as a whole.
The programme is effective 1.1.2006-31.12.2010.
The breed organisation must record any subsequent screening according to the PEVISA regulations and report on this to the breeding scientific committee before the next PEVISA programme is confirmed.
The dog must be older than 12 months old and be micro-chipped or tattooed when patellas and eyes are examined.
Breeding recommendations stipulated by the breed organisation
A dog is not recommended for breeding purposes if:
- it has been found to have patella luxation of the first degree or its puppies have inherited this to an extent that exceeds the breed average. However, if there is a well-founded reason for using this particular dog for breeding, then its mate must be examined for the same characteristics and must be found completely healthy.
- It has twice in a show had a quality assessment of 0 (disqualified) or twice a quality assessment of EVA (cannot be judged) because of its temperament.
Puppies of two dogs that are known to have PRA or HC illnesses must not be mated together.
The Finnish Spitz Breeds Club recommends an examination of the eyes and patellas before an application for the dog's championship status is made to the Finnish Kennel Club.
Nordic Spitz PEVISA renewed ahead of schedule.
New PEVISA valid from the beginning of 2010.
Nordic Spitz
01.01.2010 - 31.12.2014
At the time of testing the dog must be identified through the identification adopted by the Finnish Kennel Club (SKL).
The research report is made by an SKL approved vet./expert
The programme will be in force from 1.1.2010 - 31.12.2014
The programme also applies to the breeding rights of imported bitches and/or males
Litter registration - conditions set for the sire and dam
In order for a litter to be registered both parents should, at the time of mating, have a Finnish Kennel Club approved patella test pass result and a current eye test result. If these are lacking the litter is registered in the EJ register ('Ei Jalostukseen' ie dogs which cannot be used for breeding but can still take part in competitions and shows).
The Finnish Kennel Club may, however, register the puppies in the FI (ie the normal abbreviation for Finland, the one that used to be FIN in pedigrees) or ER (‘appendix') Register if the Breed Club gives a favourable opinion. This requirement also applies to puppies sired by foreign dogs.
Minimum eye and patella check 12 months. Eye Inspection certification is valid for 36 months. Progeny of a sire/dam with HC, PRA or PHTVL/PHPV to a degree of 2 - 6 or patella luxation to 2 - 4 will not be registered.
Patella luxation degree 1 or PHTVL/PHPV degree 1 is the breeding limitation when the other parent is healthy.
Other breed specific conditions
The number of progeny for one dog in its lifetime is limited to 30 puppies. The last allowed litter can be registered as a whole, even if this brings the total over the limit. If a dog or bitch already has 30 puppies but there is a well-founded reason for using such a dog for breeding again, the litter will only be registered if an application has been made and approved in advance. This exemption permit is given by the Kennel Club based on a supporting statement from the breed club. In this situation a new eye examination is required before the mating takes place.
If foreign sperm is used for AI, certification regarding the health of the male's eyes and patellas should accompany it.
Breed organisation breeding recommendations
The Club's objective is to keep the average inbreeding co-efficient under 3%, the breeding section recommendation will not permit a breeding combination in which the resulting puppies' inbreeding co-efficient exceeds 3% over 5 generations.
It is recommended that a male should sire three litters at the most in one calendar year.
For the first mating only one mating/litter in a calendar year is recommended. If a disorder is detected as being carried/transmitted by the dog/bitch permission will not be given by the breeding section
(A dog or bitch who transmits one of the conditions mentioned in the programme clearly above the average percentage (double or more in at least two different litters) will be banned from breeding.
Inclusion of Native bred Nordic Spitz into the breed register has been suspended until further notice:
The Finnish Kennel Club decided on 7.2.2008 to suspend the Inclusion of native bred Nordic Spitz into the breed register until further notice.
Behind this decision were ambiguities relating to guidelines and proceedures
such as, for example, the role of the breed organization in making decisions about the inclusion of Native bred Nordic Spitz into the breed register.
After taking this decision the Finnish Kennel Club (SKL) defined the principles of breed acceptance which it published in the Dog Registry Guide 2009
Once this was published, the SPJ / Nordic Spitz section immediately began to investigate the opportunity for a re-launch.
This breed section focuses on the rules and procedure which were the basis of the original thoughts on inclusion, in other words the possibility of a re-launch of the inclusion of those Native bred Nordic Spitz into the breed register thus bringing genetic diversity to the gene pool.
The unregistered offspring of registered Nordic Spitz do not meet the original idea and requirements, which means a clear change to those rules which were in use before an inclusion into the breed register was suspended.
Discussions on how to proceed will take an estimated 8 - 12 months, so the earliest possible re-opening of the register will be in spring 2010.
More information from the Nordic Spitz committee and breed advisory group
(see the end of this Guide for contacts).
Mia Mäkelä
Honesty is important - do you value a breeder's honesty or prefer a 'trimmed' version?
Honesty is a complicated question for a breeder. With the Internet becoming more and more common, breeders can give information about their breeding on their web pages more comprehensively than is possible in a small advertisement in a newspaper or in a breeder presentation.
Just how honest can a breeder be when putting information on to his web pages? The prevailing notion is that one can assume that every breeder's dogs have good temperaments and are healthy in all respects so only the ill dogs warrant a mention. Thus many breeders have to start to think whether they DARE publish negative information about the dogs they have bred. This fear is a real one - many potential puppy owners will give a wide berth to a breeder giving this kind of information because it implies that he breeds unhealthy dogs.
A change in attitude is required and breed organisations, the Kennel Club and breeders should give this problem more attention. Breeders should be emboldened to speak about the negative side of their breeding programme and puppy buyers should be educated as to how this kind of information should be handled.
Looking for a perfect dog - The importance of giving information to the puppy owner
Because all dog breeding is still based on combining the genes of two dogs, we are in a position where no perfect dog has yet been born nor will it be born. Each combination and individual will have shortcomings and handicaps, which need to be taken into account when breeding.
If we start from the basic premise that each line will have its faults we can consider which breeder is working on the right tracks and is therefore more likely to produce a healthier litter:
Breeder 1: He has made as thorough a study as possible of the family backgrounds of the dog and bitch he intends to use. He acknowledges to himself honestly the disadvantages of the lines and also informs the puppy buyer of these. When choosing the combination, his objective is that the same health and temperament problems that are present in the bitch will not be present in the dog.
Breeder 2: He does not make a thorough study of the pedigrees. If he happens to hear something about illnesses he will close his ears or make some excuse as to why such a fault has been caused and why it would not have been inherited. He will trust basically on the appearance of the potential sire and dam when choosing the combination. He assures the puppy buyer that there are no disadvantages or risks with the dogs or their ancestors.
Currently the situation is such that breeder 2 will sell his puppies more easily. Someone buying their first dog will be under the illusion that there are no risks whatsoever in this combination whereas breeder 1's litter is full of risks. Therefore the buyer will get his puppy from this "safe" combination.
As time passes and the puppy owner gets acquainted with the breed and its enthusiasts he will discover that there are faults in his puppy's background. His own puppy may also have shown signs of health and temperament problems. The breeder no longer supports him, thinking that the owner has caused the problems. At this stage the owner either believes the breeder and blames himself for the problems or he starts to look at the situation critically and notices that breeder 2 has either suppressed information or does not want to come to terms with the reality.
Honesty should become a positive advertisement
Looking at the example above, the situation seems to be that honesty and openness are not being sufficiently emphasized for new owners, breed enthusiasts and breeders. The concept of honesty could do with some PR so that buyers would demand it and the breeders would be encouraged to give information about any faults.
One compulsory side of breeding is the sale of puppies - even if a breeder loves the breed and would like to improve it by his own breeding programme he still needs to sell his puppies. And here we meet up with the problem of honesty and how honest one dares to be.
When the need for honesty is stressed publicly people will begin to respect the breeder who is open about the faults and has taken them into consideration when breeding and will consider him to be the more responsible breeder than the one boasting, arguing that everything is perfect and sticking his head in the sand.
Keep data on the puppies you have bred
The more information recorded the better, whether positive or negative. The breeder should include in his statistics at the very least all possible PEVISA illnesses and the results collected from them. When asked, he should be able to explain why dogs, which have passed the age when they should have examination results, have none. It would be most constructive if the breeder could also give information about illnesses not included in PEVISA as well as any illnesses that have not yet been diagnosed. When asked, the breeder should have some kind of picture of the hereditary features of such illnesses.
Sensible written information about the puppies bred would include such things as the sex, colour, bite, teeth, testicles, information about the bitches' seasons, coat quality, trials and show results, temperament tests, what does the dog take an interest in, its health screening results, general state of health (if there is nothing of note then just a note ‘healthy') whether the dog produced puppies or whether it has been sterilized/castrated, possible cause of death and age when it died.
A good breeder will have kept contact with the owners of the puppies he has bred on a regular basis, will be interested in the dogs he has bred and will want to share this information. So it is not very satisfactory to say that the puppy buyer has not kept in contact if information is missing. If there are several such cases then the question arises as to whether the lack of co-operation is the fault of the owner or the breeder. There are, of course, some difficult puppy buyers who never get in contact after their first enthusiasm of buying their puppy. There are always some of these even in the honest breeder's experience, but if there are several of these and they are the rule rather than the exception then you should start to wonder why.
Rule of thumb for puppy buyers
If you ask the breeder about the risks of a particular mating, what kind of problems there are in the pedigree and how they have been taken into account when planning the litter, and the breeder is either unable to answer or he answers that there are no problems, then you would be advised not to buy one of the puppies.
The sad truth is that there are always risks present and if the breeder does not want to face the facts, he is playing a risky game and the results for the puppies, the puppy buyer, the breeder and the breed can be catastrophic.
A good breeder tells you about the shortcomings of his litters and dogs and presents his breeding in an honest and critical way. He will tell you the grounds on which he has based his decision to use this particular combination of sire and dam, what kind of puppies are to be expected, what the risks are and how they have been taken into account when he decided on this mating. It is an additional bonus is if he offers a health guarantee wherein he voluntarily offers to return part of the price of the puppy if there is a shortcoming or fault in the dog.
Personally, when I browse through breeders' home pages on the web I never linger on breeder pages where statistics point solely to the excellent nature of the dogs or there is no information about the dogs and the presentation consists mainly of beautiful pictures of the dogs. In cases where there are statistics of the state of health of the breeders' puppies, and illnesses other than simply the PEVISA ones are listed, then I will take my hat off to them. Such a breeder can be recommended to a buyer who has come to me asking for a puppy.
Breeders and dog owners - invest in honesty
The more breeders and owners dare to disclose the faults found in the dogs (such as faults in testicles, faulty bites, missing teeth, illnesses) the better chance the breed stands of improvement. When the information is circulated honestly it can be taken into account when making future breeding decisions. Sharing information honesty and openly will help not only the breeder himself but also puppy buyers and other breeders who are planning new matings.
Imparting information about health problems should not be an ogre; it should be a plus regarding the breeder's honesty and responsibility. All of us as breeders and dog owners have an obligation to improve our breeds. We should maintain the level of health and ideally improve on it.
Always remember to value those breeders who are realistic.
Anybody can boast but who is daring enough to criticize his own dogs? The latter is the wiser man and the one who wants a better future for the breed.
Choosing a puppy
As soon as you know which breed would best fit your purposes and you have found a litter which pleases you, then you may have the most difficult decision ahead: Which of the lovely little furry puppies should I choose? Should I count how many whiskers it has or should I look into its palate or feel how sharp its head is? Would pure instinct suffice in making this decision?
It is a good idea to keep certain basic rules in mind when you choose a puppy. Often there are several puppies in the same litter, puppies that are the right and ‘best' ones for the right people. The choice is easier if you have thought through in advance what it is that you really want. It is difficult to study individual puppies when they are in a big litter and therefore you should divide the litter into smaller groups when you are making your choice. If you are going to take a bitch then you should only look at the bitches while choosing.
Dog or Bitch?
In the past, bitch puppies were not so much in demand because they come into season, amongst other things. It is true that a heat in the middle of a hunting or trials period is a handicap. A bitch comes into season on average every 5-10 months so it is rare for the heat to occur at the same time every year.
If your worry is about ‘accidental' puppies then that is not a reason to forego taking on a bitch, because there will be no accidents unless you let them happen. Dogs are always ‘on heat' whenever there is a bitch in season in the neighbourhood.
A dog is physically stronger, but which sex has more stamina depends on how well the dog is taken care of. A dog's temperament may often be tougher than a bitch's and may require a firmer hand from his owner, particularly when the dog is at a difficult age. There are great individual differences, however.
If you are interested in breeding then you will choose a bitch, of course.
Temperament
A sensitive puppy standing aloof is often shy when it becomes older. An alpha puppy keeping its littermates under control requires an experienced owner in order to prevent it from developing into a ‘top dog', which cannot be controlled by anyone when it becomes older. Active, courageous and independent, something between those two extreme values is a good choice of puppy. The old adage: ‘Take the puppy which comes up to you first' is not bad advice.
Temperament is a trait inherited from the parents and so it is highly recommended that you meet at least the mother of the puppies and ideally the father, too, before you make the final choice.
You should go and see the puppies for the first time when they are 5-6 weeks old and they are already moving around outside their puppy room. You should also allow enough time to observe the puppies, because a puppy that has been woken up in the middle of its afternoon nap may look very unhappy and apathetic even though it is a very vigorous puppy under normal circumstances. You should discuss with the breeder the final date at which you can make your choice. The person who has pick of litter should be considerate and, bearing in mind those next in line, should not let the decision date be too close to the eight weeks.
Are the senses working?
You could have a little test to test the puppy's hunting potential by seeing how puppies react and use their senses. Draw a line on the floor with a piece of meat without the puppy seeing you and leave a reward at the end of the trail. When the puppies are let into the room, some will be eager to follow the smell of the trail while others catch the scent of the meat in the air. Hold a bird wing taken from a freezer above the puppies and you can see where a puppy naturally tries to look for the catch: whether he starts to put his nose on the floor or realizes that he needs to look up in the air for the ‘bird'. A dog with a good ‘nose' for the trail may, later in life, be slower in getting a bird to fly than his littermate who tends to take the smell from the air.
However, such features should be taken with a pinch of salt because puppies develop at different paces and learning which takes place later also has great influence on what kind of hunting dog the puppy will eventually turn into.
Show or trial?
If you are interested in taking the dog to dog shows as well, you should pay more attention to the puppy's appearance. The body proportions and possible colour faults can usually be seen by the time he leaves for his new home. A faulty bite is noticeable when the puppy has milk teeth and you should be able to feel both testicles of a male puppy by the time you take him home.
You will get the best picture of the dog's general appearance (sukupuolileima) by comparing the puppies one with another. The steepness of the stop, strength of the lower jaw and the position of the ears also give some hints as to what can be expected. At the time he leaves for his new home the puppy's tail can still be rather short but you can try to assess how it will end up by the set-on. If the spitz tail goes forward tight from the set-on and curves from there down to the loin then there will be nothing wrong with it even when the dog matures. A tail lying along the back in an older dog has often shown a tendency to do this from the time he was a small puppy.
Breeder advice
Experienced breeders are the best people to advise as to the individual features of the puppy - they have been watching the litter's development from birth. It is worth asking the breeder's opinion about which puppies would best fulfill the criteria the buyer has set and why. But the final decision of the choice of puppy must be left to the buyer.
But you shouldn't worry too much about picking your puppy because there are several cases on record where the one remaining puppy in the litter, which nobody else had chosen, became someone's dream dog ...
Kennel and run or running line?
And what kind of kennel?
Hunting spitz breeds are active dogs, which like to be able to watch what is going on around them. They are easily bored if they are just kept indoors - on the other hand neither should you leave the dog to his own devices if he lives outside for he still needs daily socialization and to be taken for regular walks. Should you choose a kennel or a running line? This is a question needing careful consideration. If a dog wears a collar all the time it will damage the hair and militate against the dog's success at shows. In an area where there are wolves, a dog fixed to a line is easy game to a wolf coming to the yard. If you forget a bitch in heat and leave her on her running line the consequence will be trouble. A line even seems to get entangled in bushes. Despite all this a running line seems to be a more pleasant choice for the dog than being put into a kennel, although a kennel also has its advantages.
Don't isolate the dog from company
A dog is a gregarious animal and is not happy stuck in his kennel run or on a line at the end of the garden. He should be in a place where he is able to see what is going on in the garden. If you also offer him the option of counting every passer by, you might get into trouble with the neighbours if he becomes too vociferous. It is possible that his comments will not be so loud if you take the dog for long and interesting daily walks and he discharges his energy into something other than attracting the attention of passers by.
Running line
The easiest thing is to place a running line between two buildings, where getting entangled in bushes and trees is less of a problem.
A dog under a year old may only be tied temporarily on a certain spot according to animal protection laws. He should be in a kennel as a young puppy and you should not put a very young puppy on a running line. There is a great risk of the puppy getting entangled in the cord and, if lead training is not completed, a growing dog finds it a great temptation to destroy the cord by chewing on it.
If you can put the cord in a place where the dog is able to greet all the guests and say goodbye to them, find both shade and sunshine in the area and perhaps even a flower bed where it is allowed to dig, then he will usually adjust easily to being on a running line.
If the dog is accustomed to being on a line it is easier to care for him when you take him to places without a kennel and also when staying in cabins in the forest. This is another reason why a kennel dog should have at least some training in being on a running line.
A bitch cannot manage without a kennel because of her seasons, and a proper kennel run is the best protection for dogs in areas where there are wolves.
Kennel run
The kennel run should be such that it keeps the dog in and unwanted guests out. Even if your bitch would not try to escape with frail chicken wire round the run, this material will not keep passionate bridegrooms out when she is in season nor wolves with bad intentions from sneaking into the run.
If there is enough room then you could make a larger running area for the dog. In the picture the two spitz and one hound have a 1600m square area surrounded by a 120cm high wire fence. The results after one winter have proved excellent. Note that there are also built-in platforms for keeping watch!
The roof of the kennel should be such that the dog can get on to it to keep watch on his surroundings. If the kennel is not suitable for this then you should build a platform somewhere else just for this purpose.
Ironmongers and agricultural stores sell 2m high steel chain link in 20m rolls suitable for kennel fencing. Steel mesh in a concrete channel makes a strong fence for your dog. It does look a bit rough so it is an idea to plant plants along it. There are also some practical prefabricated kennels on the market.
When you build one with chain link you will need strong posts with wooden boards horizontally along the top and close to the ground. You should be careful not to let the posts (including those treated with wood preservatives) get into contact with the concrete but put a proper moisture seal in between them.
A solid concrete floor in the kennel run is easy to keep clean but is a bit boring for the dog. You can put concrete slabs on the floor or just use them for part of the run. A run that has not been covered with anything is soon full of holes and is not so easy to keep clean. Dogs are always dusty in such a kennel and owners of black dogs are particularly aware of that.
You can prevent dogs from digging under the chain link by putting a net as used in fish traps flat under the soil coming in some 50cm from the wire. If the dog learns to climb up and out of the run then you must have jump deterring fencing ie sloping inwards at the top.
The door to the run should have a sufficiently high threshold to enable it to be opened easily when there is deep snow.
Dogs kept in kennels must get regular outings and their excreta must be removed frequently. The spring, when the snow has melted, is time for a proper clean. A kennel with a concrete floor is easy to clean with a pressure washer for instance. An uncovered earth floor needs careful cleaning with all excreta that has been missed during the winter being removed, followed by building lime being put on the damp soil. You should keep the dog away from the run for a day after adding lime because it is highly alkaline and the fresh lime not only disinfects but also irritates.
You must take care to ensure that there is sufficient shade for the dog during the hot summer months
The kennel
How you equip the kennel depends on whether the dog is kept outdoors or in the house. The kennel can have heating or be unheated - the main thing is that it is always dry and has no draughts. It must be raised off the ground because often in the heat of the summer the dog loves to stay below the kennel in a kind of ‘cellar' which he has dug there himself or which his owner has made for him. You can build a kennel yourself and there are plenty of instructions available in the do-it-yourself section in libraries for instance. Often it is easier to just buy one. It is worth checking what kind of kennels prison stores have in stock. A second door - making a small ‘ante-chamber' is useful but not necessary. A window adds to the comfort but is not necessary. If the dog does not enjoy being in a kennel or tears the protective cover from it, this may be because of dampness due to lack of ventilation. A dog that is used to staying outdoors will not worry about a severe frost just so long as his coat is kept dry. The warmth emitted from the dog and the humidity caused by his breathing will make the kennel damp if there is not sufficient ventilation. You should never bring a dog indoors for just an hour or two to warm him up when it is very cold outside. In just a few hours his frosty coat has time to melt but not to dry, with the result that when you let him out again he will get very cold. If you do bring the dog inside during severe cold weather you should keep him in the warm house long enough for his coat to dry right down to the skin which, basically, means overnight.
Ensure sufficient ventilation!
You should not make the kennel airtight. The ventilation must function properly. The thermally insulated kennel in the picture was covered with mould after only the first winter because there was no exit for the humidity emitted from the dog.
Regardless of the heating of the kennel and whether or not it has heating you must ensure that it is ventilated by, for instance, leaving a 15mm gap between the detachable roof and the back wall.
Heidi Lahtinen
A basic kennel
According to the law a dog kennel must be constructed in such a way that it gives proper shelter to the dog against cold, heat, damp and draught. The structure and material of the kennel must be such that it can be cleaned easily. There are several types - here you have a picture of a basic model, which has been developed, improved and tested by many dog owners and has proved to work very well in practice.
The inner framework of the floor
and the roof can be measured to
a length sufficient to build a covered front porch.
Even without a porch, the roof must protrude
from the walls approximately 5cm at the sides,
10cm at the back and 20cm. at the front.
50x50 mm
50x100 mm
drop side
50 mm
styrox
coated plywood or marine ply
6 mm
corner board
The roof slopes slightly backwards
and is covered with roofing felt.
It is important that there is enough
ventilation and a clearance of 15mm
must be left between the back wall and the roof.
The roof is detachable.
A draught valve attached to the door
opening prevents a draught, as does a high threshold.
A second door - making a small ‘ante-chamber'
would be the most effective here.
Opening (doorway)
25 - 30cm x
30 - 40 cm
From the floor to the bottom edge of the
opening approx 20cm
Measurements
Measure the height of your dog sitting and this should equal the inner height of the kennel.
Measure the length of your dog when it is lying on its side relaxed. Add 5-10cm to this and you will get the inner length of the kennel. Measure the ‘height‘ of your dog lying on its side from the front toes to the tip of its ears. Add 5-10cm to this to get the inner width of the kennel.
The opening must be such that the dog is happy to walk through it. To avoid draughts as much as possible it is better if the opening is not too large.
Heating and comfort
Heating will help to keep the kennel dry but then you must also remember to take account of the ventilation.
Floor heating or overhead heating may be the best solutions.
A hunting spitz will manage nicely even in a kennel without any heating. In the winter the kennel should have plenty of the sort of bedding which does not break up quickly. Oat straw is a good choice; rye straw tends to be too hard and breaks easily. Hay intended for use in a kennel should be dried when it is still young, before it has come into seed. Many people recommend wood chippings. To begin with you should watch that the dog doesn't eat the bedding material.
Remember to change the litter sufficiently often that it does not start to become dusty. At the same time you should monitor the kennel to see that it stays dry even when it is really cold.
Eero Niku-Paavo
Epilepsy in Finnish Spitz
On the whole the Finnish Spitz is a healthy breed. However, there is an hereditary illness of epilepsy, the incidence of which appears to be greater than the average in Finnish Spitz compared with other breeds. Epilepsy is a malfunction of the electro-chemical function of the brain that occurs as fits of different degrees. The fits that the Finnish Spitz gets are usually seizures where the dog becomes unconscious. It is common that the seizures start during the first few years of the dog's life.
The breeding committee has been actively looking for some means of preventing the spread of this condition by modifying breeding practices. Some calculations have been developed to help this such as the ‘epi count', which is based on five-generation lines (genus). The count indexes the dogs in a pedigree that have been reported ill, based on their location in the pedigree and their relation to the dog that is the object of the count. The factors influencing epilepsy in Finnish Spitz have a genetic background and it is possible to change the manifestation of the illness by careful breeding. Because it is probably a ‘threshold' genetic condition, this value added index is useful and it can help decide which dogs should be used for breeding.
So it is important that when you are buying a puppy you are aware of the epi coefficient of the puppy and whether the litter in question has been planned in such a way to reduce this epi risk. The breeding council aims to encourage combinations of sire and dam where puppies would most probably have no symptoms of this. Our litter information advisors only give information about those litters that fulfill our criteria and those asking for a litter from us will get the all health facts they need. Generally speaking, each breeder should know which coefficients the parents in their litter have and should share this information with a puppy buyer. If a buyer would like to check the coefficient of the puppy he is planning to buy, he can check it with the breeding committee of the breed organisation.
If the breeder wishes to plan a mating, being aware of the epi coefficient of his bitch and that of the potential sire will allow him to estimate their suitability for breeding and will help in planning matings. The coefficient will also tell the puppy buyer whether he will be able to continue breeding with his dog if the coefficients keep increasing. Additional information of the coefficient and its use will be found on the web pages of the breed organisation at http://www.spj.fi/spk/terveys/terveysasiat.htm
The Finnish Spitz Breeds Club has been cooperating with the long-term studies of the Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Helsinki and lecturer Hannes Lohi in order to find the reasons for this epilepsy of the Finnish Spitz at the genetic level. This examination hopes for a breakthrough in the elimination of this problem. More of the subject is available here http://www.koirageenit.fi
From an article by Rovaseuden Pystykorvakerho ry
edited by the information committee of the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club
Early puppy training
A typical attribute of a good hunting dog is the good relationship between the handler and the dog. Building this trust begins as soon as the puppy moves to his new home. With all basic training you should bear in mind that you will be building a foundation for all later hunting training and companionship.
You must spend a lot of time with the puppy. He should be taken on daily walks so that he will get the necessary exercise. You should take frequent outings to different places and environments but you should not overstress the puppy. This way he will learn to know his master and to trust him and by the same token his master will gradually get to know the puppy's character. If the puppy is treated correctly according to his temperament, he will form a lifelong attachment to his owner.
The puppy will have been house-trained by the time he is two to three months old. A puppy will learn this quickly although certainly accidents may happen for some months. It is as well as to let the puppy out as soon as he wakes up, because that is an obvious time for emptying the bladder. The puppy must learn his name and get used to his sleeping place. His sleeping place should be draught-free and in a quiet place. A puppy should always be given the opportunity to take his time eating and sleeping so that he becomes a calm and trusting dog rather than a ‘jumpy' one. Children should also be aware of this so that they do not consider the puppy a ‘toy' and a healthy bond should develop between the children and the puppy.
Dogs are gregarious animals and the dog's place is to be the lowest in the hierarchy. A puppy yearns for love and boundaries but above all for consistency: if something is banned, then it is banned for ever. Also all commands and bans must be straightforward and logical. Forget about long chats about the reasons for the command and what will happen if the command is not obeyed!
It is easiest to teach the dog to stay on his own while he is still a puppy. Leave him alone at home while you go shopping, for example, without any long goodbyes. If there are complaints and crying you must keep a cool head - the more often you give in the greater the chance that you will end up with an adult dog who suffers from separation anxiety. If the puppy causes any damage while alone you can accustom him to spending some time in a cage such as the ones show dogs have. If the cage is part of the regular furniture at home, its door is always open when the family is there and the puppy always gets the best tidbits there (such as a pig's ear every now and then) he will easily accept it as his own safe place.
A collar, a lead and a stubborn puppy
It is as well, before hunting training as such, to teach the 3 - 5 month old puppy how to walk on a lead. When you pick up the lead it should be associated with something nice to come. If the dog is not lead trained properly he will become a vexing ‘tug' which women in particular dislike. You can get hints on lead training by attending local dog classes, for example. Many local kennel clubs organize such classes. Under no circumstances should you punish a dog on a lead in such a way that it will connect the punishment with coming to you. Those who keep the lead as a means of punishment are bound to lose out.
The puppy must learn how to come to you under all circumstances, so that when a situation arises where perhaps there is a problem and you need to get your dog away from the forest, he will be trained to come to you. A greedy dog can be lured away by using dried liver chips that you can keep ready in your pockets. When the puppy comes to you, you must pat him and tell him how good he is and then perhaps touch his collar casually. Finally, give him a tidbit and let him carry on with what he wants to do. Despite all this practice the dog may try your patience when at the age of 1 to 1.5 years he is at the rebellious stage and finds it hilarious to stay just far enough away from you that you cannot quite reach to put him on his lead. If the basic work has been done properly when he was a puppy, your dog will become submissive again after he has passed this difficult age.
A puppy needs to get to the forest, his future place of work, at an early age
In urban areas or on roads the dog will soon learn to beware of cars. When a car is approaching take the dog to the side of the road and slow down or even stop for a moment. This training may later save the dog's life when he comes back from hunting trips when it is pitch black in the autumn.
You should never hit your dog! To punish a puppy it is sufficient to squeeze his muzzle (or the whole small head) and/or press him against the floor which reminds the puppy of his mother's behaviour when he was naughty. The dog will soon learn what a negative word means when he has done something wrong. The dog should be admonished with an immediate ‘No' or a similar command when he is seen to be doing something which is forbidden.
Going to the forest
The walks will take you gradually further and further from your home to the forest so that the puppy will no longer be afraid of losing his way and will soon start to move ever further from his master. Hiding from him is not necessarily the best way to teach a young and in particular somewhat sensitive hunting spitz puppy to come to you. It is more important to teach him courage and make him trust that his master is not going to disappear even when the puppy dares to go a little further away from him. Often at this stage the puppy is already starting to bark at little birds and to follow them. On the same excursion you can take time to practice with him coming back to you and walking on a lead. This is also a time to familiarize him with those animals you don't wish him to be interested in later on, such as reindeer in the north. If he seems to be interested in them you should make your wishes clear and nip this activity in the bud.
The dog should learn to travel in a car, although he may feel sick at first and be wary of getting into it. If this is the case the rides should be made as pleasant as possible and they do not have to be long ones at first. The first rides could take the dog somewhere pleasant so that he will link the ride with the event. In particular you should make sure that a dog which shows a tendency to be sick in the car is not given his dinner before a ride, because a puppy which has just had its dinner vomits very easily. The same system should be used to accustom the puppy to boats and snowmobiles if you want your dog to accompany you on such trips.
If you are planning to guide your hunting spitz's movements in the forest in the future, then you could start training your puppy how to move according to your hand signals and whistles and how to come to you when you use your whistle. A dog will hear the whistle several hundreds of meters away and this sound does not scare off the game.
When a puppy goes a little distance away from his master, a short whistle will usually cause him to turn and come back to him or at least pay attention to him. At this you should point with your outstretched hand in the direction you want him to go to and at the same time take a few steps to that direction. Soon the puppy will hurry past his master in the direction pointed out to him and then you can give him another whistle and point in the opposite direction. By continuing like this the puppy will learn to circle in front of his master by obeying the hand signs.
Gunshot and water
A puppy must also learn to go into water. This training should be done when it is warm and it should be made as pleasant an event as possible. Where the water is shallow, on the shore, a puppy will get used to it on his own. As soon as he dares to walk in the shallow water you can start throwing sticks or twigs for him to tempt him into deeper water. You can also set him an example by going into the water yourself and playing with him thus luring him into deeper water where he will start to swim. At first a puppy may be scared when the bottom ‘disappears' and will try to get back to the shore quickly. You should not try to stop him but simply try to lure him back again to swim. All this must happen on the puppy's terms and you should by no means throw him into the water.
Early training also includes accustoming the puppy to the sound of gunshot. It is easiest to do this with someone else firing the shots or by taking the dog with you to a shooting range. At first you should stay some distance away from the place where the shots are fired, say about 500 meters, then gradually, as the puppy stops reacting fearfully to the gunshots, you can move closer. To begin with you should use a small caliber gun and keep the puppy behind the person who is shooting so that the pressure from the shot is not directed to the dog's ears. You should be careful with sudden gunshot and with shots coming from an unexpected direction until the puppy is so well accustomed to them that he can be let loose during the shooting. The people present should not marvel at the gunshot but rather pay no attention to it at all. You can find something nice to do during the early training, such a playing with a ball or some other favourite game. If there is an older dog, which is not afraid of gunshot at all and gets along well with the puppy, then this dog's calm behaviour can set the puppy a good example.
If you do not accustom the puppy to gunshot he may become scared of it later on and this means that the dog is practically ruined as far as hunting is concerned.
Soile Torvinen
Riding a bike with your Spitz
It is as well as to start getting your dog into condition for the autumn hunting season soon after the snow has melted in the spring. To send a dog after game in the forest in the autumn when he is in poor condition as a result of being kept constantly in a kennel or on a running line is all but cruelty to animals. His condition is not strong enough to endure demanding, long-lasting working sessions that can cause severe muscle ache and sore paws and pads.
You can expect the best hunting result only if the dog is already in a lean and firm physical condition at the beginning of the season. Attention should also be paid to feeding during this demanding time. The diet should be changed in good time from a maintenance diet to a diet delivering more energy and having the right balance of protein and fat. ‘In good time' also in the sense that if the diet is changed too suddenly without a few days of mixing the old and new diets then the dog may suffer from diarrhoea. If this diarrhoea happens during the first days of hunting the game is over, at least on the dog's part.
You can start cycling with the dog as soon as he has stopped growing. These excursions are like jogging, a spitz should not be taking this sort of exercise when he is under a year old. You should first teach the dog to get to know the bicycle simply by walking with him and a bicycle. As soon as the dog no longer reacts to the presence of the bicycle then you can jump to the saddle and pedal slowly for a short distance. Gradually the distances should become longer to prevent the dog from getting bored with cycling.
With the help of a bicycle the dog's mechanical movement improves and also his muscle condition. Although a spitz likes to gallop when moving in the forest, the speed when cycling should be adjusted to that of the dog when trotting. This is because the ground in the forest is much softer and more elastic than on the cycling or walking routes that you are likely to use.
Of course, you can raise the pulse level every now and then with the help of short exercise intervals, letting the dog gallop up a long hill, for instance. Also, when trotting it is worth letting the speed vary from an almost walking speed to a brisk trot, which enables the blood to get to the muscles more effectively.
During the summer it is advisable to go cycling either late in the evening or early in the morning. We humans may consider midday in the bright sunshine the most pleasant choice but it is the worst possible time of day for the dog. When the air temperature is high and humidity is low the oxygen content of the air is also really low. When a dog is taken for a run in such conditions, the potential consequence can be heat stroke. It is also worth having a break every now and then (15min / 2-5km), at the same time giving the dog some water to drink. It is also important to remember that you should never take a dog jogging soon after he has had his dinner. Dogs with large rib cages may easily develop bloat, which will be fatal unless you get the dog operated on in time!
It is worth looking at the paws and pads every now and then to avoid an unpleasant shock. Running on a hard surface in particular will wear the dog's pads and make his joints sore, which can make running painful. This is another instance where ‘listening' to your dog is important.
As far as cycling equipment is concerned a proper dog harness is the best possible choice. The dog may pull very hard at the beginning of the training and a harness is best suited to his physique. For this reason you should never use a collar on him when cycling because it strangles him. If the dog scraps with other dogs you meet, then of course keep a collar in your pocket and put it on the dog if you are expecting trouble but during the actual trip the dog must wear some other kind of a collar than one which could strangle him. It is almost as harmful to the dog's throat to let him pull with a normal collar. His throat will get ‘crushed' with insufficient air getting through to the dog's lungs. This also causes oxygen deficiency in the dog's muscles, which is very stressful.
It is important to take care of a hunting dog's condition not just in the hunting season. A dog which is under one year old should not be taken on hard jogging exercises but it is all right to take grown up dogs cycling, skiing and sledding.
Heidi Lahtinen
Stages of Puppy Development
A puppy will grow and develop in a year from a heart-stopping bundle of fur to a youngster on the threshold of adulthood.
The year includes several clear stages of development that every puppy owner should know about and understand.
0-2 weeks
The puppies are born blind and are completely dependent on their mother's care. Their sense of feeling and smell have already developed and so at this stage members of the family should touch the puppies, at the same time taking care not to make the mother nervous. Strangers and other dogs should not be allowed in to disturb the newcomers. The puppies spend their days eating and sleeping.
2-3 weeks
The puppies start to see and hear. Learning begins and it is important that the first experiences are positive. The mother's behaviour leaves a deep impression in the puppies' minds and therefore you should be extremely careful not to upset her.
It has been noticed that daily contact with the puppies is good for their later development. Stroking the puppies and having them in your lap and tucking them under your arm will help them to connect positively to the human smell.
3-4 weeks
The puppies start to get solid food in addition to their mother's milk. They start to move more efficiently without necessarily needing help from their mother.
You will hear the first yelps and see the puppies having a rough and tumble.
The ‘imprinting' stage begins.
4-7 weeks
The period of the most powerful imprinting, a vital period. The puppies must have sufficient daily contact with people. It is essential that they become totally accustomed to being handled by humans so that as they get older they identify with them and not just with other dogs. They should also be treated as individuals.
At this stage they should meet different people and as far as possible get to know the other dogs in the family. Playing together and being with adult dogs the puppy will learn important social skills. The puppies should also get a wider view of their surroundings outside the puppy room. From 5-6 weeks onwards they should have daily outings with opportunities to run around. This is the time when the breeder may teach the puppy that a whistle means ‘dinner is served' and the word ‘out' means a nice outing to the garden.
In theory the puppies are completely weaned off their mother by the age of six weeks but she may let them have a suck occasionally up until the time they leave for their new homes. This is no longer important in a nutritional sense but this habit gives the puppy a feeling of basic security. It is highly important in terms of the mental development of the puppy that he has the opportunity to grow up with his littermates and mother until the age of 7-8 weeks.
7-8 weeks
This is the best age for a puppy to move to its new home and become weaned off his mother and away from his littermates.
8-12 weeks
At this age both good and bad experiences impress themselves on the puppy's mind very effectively and often stay there for the rest of his life. It is when his learning ability is at its peak! During these months the puppy will easily learn the meaning of words, so use clear commands to tell him what is allowed and what not. It is best to avoid giving the puppy any traumatic experiences and he should only meet such strange dogs as will not react too aggressively towards him. During these weeks the puppy will figure out for himself what other dogs, strange animals and, for instance, different people are like.
Teaching the puppy to come to you with help of play should be the start of behavioural training. It is also worth teaching a puppy to settle on his own but remember, a cage is not meant as a permanent place for a puppy. The more stimuli the puppy gets from his environment, the more adaptable and apt at learning he will become.
You can start to brush the puppy, examine his ears and paws, try to measure his height at withers and lift his lips in a casual way as if to check the bite. You should be careful and gentle so that this does not leave a negative impression in the puppy's memory.
You can make short excursions in the neighbourhood. These excursions to a new and fascinating world must be carried out on the puppy's terms. You must be careful that the puppy does not get lost and panic because such a shock may result in the dog being too dependent and therefore poor at the search as an adult.
The more you have to do with the puppy the stronger the bond between puppy and owner will become.
Never take a puppy of this age with you to watch fireworks, noisy public events, shooting competitions or similar things because the strong trauma engendered by them may leave a permanent mark on the dog for the rest of his life.
It is usually much better for a puppy to learn to walk on the lead when he is closer to 12 than 8 weeks.
13-17 weeks
A three month old puppy will already be starting start to show his own personality and will begin to search for his place in the group. The stronger and more dominant his temperament the less he should be given opportunities to have his own way. You should never disturb a puppy when he is eating. If he has no need to defend its food as a puppy, he will by and large not do it when he is an adult either.
If the puppy starts to defend an object he has monopolized in an aggressive manner then you should first try to ‘swap' it for something more attractive - the way his mother often would. If it is not possible to make such a swap then you should try to fool the puppy into doing something more interesting like running after a ball. You can teach compliance and self-control by, for instance, giving permission to eat only after he first sits down quietly.
You should encourage and give support to a timid puppy and let him have experiences of success. If a puppy has ambitions to be dominant, however, you should not play any fighting games with him where you let him win.
A puppy should never be hit. However, he must learn both that he should comply with bans and that being naughty will have consequences. Adult dogs demonstrate how this is done. They are very patient with a puppy at first but in the end they will control him by snarling and biting his muzzle. So, for example, if a persistent puppy is trying out his teeth on your hands you could press his muzzle in such a way that he gives a yelp. In this way you are giving a clear signal. The person doing this must be quick and precise because if the puppy slips away from this treatment he simply gets more exited at the attention he has gained and will be even more boisterous when snapping at you in the future.
As a punishment you can also press the puppy to the ground, but shaking the puppy by his neck can make a particularly stubborn puppy even fiercer. If you find the puppy chewing something that has been banned you can make the ban more effective by spraying water from a spray bottle onto his muzzle, although this is not advisable for teaching a lesson to a shy puppy.
5-7 months
A puppy is meek and eager to please. However, he is still a ‘baby' of which you cannot demand too much. You must always remember to teach a task first before expecting the puppy to perform it. However, you should not let the puppy get away with anything if you know he has learnt the task already: for example an exercise in training the puppy to come to you when called should not be interrupted in the middle when the puppy finds something better to do. For each time you give up you will pay dearly later.
A puppy usually enjoys cooperating with people and so it is worth letting him be with you as much as possible. You can also carefully start hunting training by observing how the puppy gets on with the exercises. It is important that the dog often gets the chance to learn about his hunting terrain, even if the daily trips don't last very long.
7-12 months
As a rule the dog will become sexually mature at the age of 6-10 months and this puberty stage will make the puppy moody and capricious. Just before and after the puppy is one year old he tries his master's patience because he is at his rebellious stage. The dog does not come to you because for him it is real fun to let his owner come as close as one or two meters and then run off, galloping wildly. Sometimes it is wise to have a break in obedience training during these few difficult months.
The puppy still enjoys doing things with his master. Apart from the hunting trips it is worth making some trips into town as well as going to dog training classes just as a socialising experience.
Over 12 months
When the dog is one year old, his physical and mental capacities begin to develop to such an extent that a more demanding kind of training can begin. There will be other rebellious ages later, for example the males may test their pecking order as late as two years of age. When the puppy has been taught in a natural way that his place is the lowest in the hierarchy, these challenges can usually be dealt with easily.
Even before the dog becomes a real adult it is also worth teaching him the fact that any member of the hunting party may come to the kill and put him on a lead. The dog's owner should also teach other members of the hunting party to act in an appropriate manner so that a young dog in particular does not get anxious when group hunting (which he will, if he is not treated correctly) but that he will think that the fellow hunters are also nice people.
Sources:
SPJ:n jalostusnumero 1B/2001 (Breeding issue 1B/2001 of the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club) Saki Paatsama: Terve ja sairas koira Anders Hallgren: Koiranongelmia ja ongelmakoiria Helena Koskentalo: Parempaan pentutulokseen
Heidi Lahtinen
Show training
At a dog show a dog is judged against the breed standard after which the judge will state whether the dog is a satisfactory, good, very good or excellent specimen of the breed. In the event that the dog has a serious feature which is against the breed standard, he can be given a ‘disqualified'.
A young dog in particular can be inexperienced and thus behave in the ring in such a way that the judge cannot give him a fair appraisal. If you do not want your dog to get an EVA (cannot be judged) assessment, you should train him to behave in the ring.
Even if you haven't planned on making a real ‘showman' of your puppy it is worth taking him to at least one show. The more hunting spitz are judged the better the picture the relevant breeding committee will get of the current general standard of the breed and whether the appearance may be changing in one direction or another. To make the show experience as enjoyable as possible for all parties it is worth having at least some show training beforehand. What is more, a dog walking nicely on the lead and allowing himself to be touched is a better companion than an undisciplined one in everyday life, too.
Teeth
Each dog has his bite checked, that is seeing whether its front teeth have a scissor bite or an even, over or under bite. While this is being checked the dog's jaws are kept together and the judge opens the front lip to see the bite. If the dog's handler wishes he can show the bite instead.
When the puppy is just a few months old you can start lifting his lip in a casual manner every now and then and saying something like ‘teeth' at the same time. It isn't necessary to actually check the teeth before the puppy has got accustomed to you lifting his lip. After you have done this successfully a ‘treat' is in order. You can even do this daily, but never so often that the dog loses patience with it. It is better to check just once in a while. Once the whole family can check the bite successfully it is time to ask an experienced visitor to do the same. Checking the teeth is one of the first things that will happen in a show ring and if it becomes a struggle then the dog will often lose any enjoyment of shows. In future judges will pay even more attention to missing dentition than before. The teeth most commonly missing are the premolars right behind the canines and to check this you have to open the dog's mouth. As soon as you have mastered checking the bite it is time to start checking the whole dentition.
Testicles
Each male dog will have his testicles checked to ensure that both testicles have descended. The judge will test this by hand from the rear. If the dog has been used to people touching him from the time he was very young there should be no problem with this experience either.
Measuring the dog
The judge will often want to be sure of the dog's size by measuring his height at the withers. For this the dog should be standing straight on level ground.
Accustoming a puppy to this simply entails touching his withers with a stick every now and then. You can also get a stranger to do this and give the dog a reward afterwards, of course!
When the judge approaches with his measuring stick the dog's handler may crouch down next to his dog, scratch him by his ear at the same time turn his head away from the judge. If the dog is used to feeling the measure coming down on to his withers he will not collapse and the measuring will go well.
Movement
In order to get a picture of how the dog moves the judge should see the dog trotting naturally from the front, the side and the back. If the dog keeps pulling on his lead, it is not always possible to judge the movement.
On your daily walks it is worthwhile teaching him to run on his handler's left side without pulling.
Standing
Hunting spitz are not placed into position in a show ring, they are assessed ‘free-standing'. This means that the dog should stand a few meters away from the judge side-on and in such a way that the judge can see the outline, including the tail.
This can be taught by, for instance, using the word 'stand' and rewarding the dog as soon as he has managed to stand still for a moment in a beautiful and alert stance. Many dogs manage this very well naturally as soon as the fault of pulling on a lead has been eradicated. Showing is also facilitated if the dog is accustomed to being with other dogs and amongst crowds with no traumatic experiences of either.
You are allowed to make the dog look more alert by giving him some tidbits but the ring steward may have something to say if someone is attracting him from outside the ring. If the dog starts to flag and his tail starts to go down, a quick run around the ring usually helps.
Getting show experience from dog classes
If there is a kennel association that organises dog classes in your town it is worth joining with a 6-12months old puppy. Even if they don't have a special class for show training it is still worth going. The dog will learn how to meet and walk past other dogs without pulling and you can ask the teacher to check your ‘potential show dog's' bite, testicles and height. Once I even asked the trainer to lift my spitz bitch because I knew that the judge in an impending show had the habit of doing this to get an idea of the dog's weight. If you don't want your dog to learn any particular obedience moves you can just stand still in a row while the others are doing the exercises because even this is valuable ‘show training' for a hunting spitz!
If there are dog classes where you live it is worth joining the classes even with a spitz. If nothing else, your dog will gain social skills and showing experience.
Getting new members
SPJ-FSK ry (Spitz Breeds of Finland Club) has a competition, open to all current members, with the aim of getting new members. For each three new members the contestant signs up during the year and whose subscription fee is paid, the contestant will get one lottery ticket. The lottery is drawn at the Annual General Meeting.
There are three awards, worth of 150, 100 and 50 euros. The name and membership number of the person securing the new members must be given when they join the club.
Board members may take part in attracting new members but they may not take part in the competition itself.
The Finnish Spitz Breed Standard - WHAT IS IT?
Antti Aarnio's book explaining the Finnish Spitz breed standard omits nothing, from head to tail. This 60-page work should be on the bookshelf of everyone really interested in breeding the national breed of Finland.
Price 5 euros, ALSO AVAILABLE IN ENGLISH!
Postage added to the price.
SPJ Club's products: Annukka Pirinen, Eevastiinantie 5, 40500 Jyväskylä
tel: (0)40 828 1489. Shop on the net: www.haukku.net
The book was published in 2002 and it tells you clearly what a Finnish Spitz should be like at its best. It also illustrates what kind of structural faults a breeder should be aware of. Plenty of colour pictures make it clear to the reader what, for example, a narrow chest, poor eyes or a quality tail look like.
Get your show results in time - VO1 (Trial winners' class) without a show qualification counts for nothing
Dog shows for hunting spitz are held for the most part in the first half of the year, mainly in the late winter. Autumn belongs to hunting and also to field trials. A dog can take part in open classes in HIRV (elk) and LINT (bird) trials without a show result but the road to the winners' class is closed until he has been awarded at least a ‘satisfactory' award at a dog show.
A hunting spitz may take part in a bird or elk barking trial from the age of nine months. A show result is not required in the open (AVO) class at the moment but when the dog has got a AVO1 (OPEN 1) it must get a prize at a show before it can enter the winners (VOI) class. Getting a prize means that a dog over nine months old is awarded a quality assessment of excellent, very good, good or at least satisfactory at an official dog show. Puppy classes are unofficial so a quality assessment from that is not sufficient.
In the autumn there are only a few shows for dogs in Group 5 (Spitz) and therefore it is advisable to get some kind of show result as soon as your dog reaches the age of nine months because otherwise a good run in the trials would have to be broken off after a result of AVO1.
For quality trials, a ‘GOOD' qualification at 15 months of age is needed
If the dog becomes so talented a game dog that you wish to take part in some of the most valued trials in the field then you should update the show result your dog got when young. In order to get into these highly esteemed trials the dog must have been awarded at least an H (GOOD) at the age of 15 months or older. An earlier award, even a better one, is not enough.
Show qualifications required for prize trials:
Tappisarvi and Metsopoika
At least a ‘GOOD' (HYVÄ)
Kuningatarottelu and Hirviherra
At least a ‘GOOD' after the dog is 15 months old.
Haukku-ottelu and Hirvenhaukut
At least a GOOD after the dog is 15 months old in a dog show authorized by a kennel organisation in a country acknowledged by the FCI.
To the show!
A dog may take part in a show if he is KC registered, vaccinated, bears an identification marking (micro-chip or tattoo) according to the regulations and is healthy. You can find information on dog shows in the Kennel Club publication ‘Koiramme' which publishes details on all shows 2-3 months before the show date. Information about the shows can also be found on the Internet at www.kennelliitto/nayttelyt. Many show organisers also have their own web pages.
Karelian Bear Dog, Nordic Spitz and Finnish Spitz belong to Group 5 of the FCI. If there is a note: ‘part of group 5' it includes these breeds.
You must enter a show at least one month beforehand if it is an all-breeds or an International show. For a group show or a breed show entries usually close 2-3 weeks before the date of the show. Entry is made in writing on a show entry form (ilmoittautuminen näyttelyyn) that can be found on the Finnish Kennel Club web pages. The information needed for this form is in the dog's registration book. You must fill in all the owner's contact details. The entry fee for the show must be paid to the show's bank account by the last day of entry. The entry together with the receipt must be mailed by the last day of entry at the latest. The following day's postmark can be accepted if the fee has been paid in time. Some shows can be entered via the Internet.
Classes
When you enter a dog in a show you must state which class you want him to enter. Apart from the breeders' class, he can only compete in one class. The exhibitor may choose the class according to the regulations - in other words depending on the dog's age and trial results.
Puppy class 7-9 months
Junior class 9 - 18 months
Intermediate class 15 - 24 months
Open class 15 months onwards
Working class 15 months onwards
Champion class 15 months onwards
Veteran class 8 years onwards
For each class the dog must be of a specific age the day before the show.
The puppy class is unofficial and will be scheduled only if the show committee has applied for it.
In breed organisations' specialist shows there can also be a special puppy class for puppies between 5 and 7 months old.
For a dog to be entered in the working class it must have trial results.
The requirements for entry into the working class are the same trial results as needed for the dog to get his Show Champion title: Karelian Bear Dogs, Nordic Spitz and Finnish Spitz have the following requirements for a Finnish Show Champion title: field trial results from bird barking trials (LINT) either 1 x LINT-AVO1 (Open1) or 2 x LINT AVO2 (open2) or an elk barking trial result (HIRV) either 1 x HIRV AVO1 (Open 1) or 2 x HIRV AVO2 (Open2). These results must be put on the entry form without fail if you want to enter your dog in the working class.
A Finnish show champion (FIN MVA) must always be entered in the Champion Class unless the dog is eligible to enter the Working Class or Veteran Class.
Hunting Spitz are allowed small bursts of boisterousness so long as the dog behaves in such a way that he can be assessed in between them. Photo: Soile Torvinen.
At the show
The show organiser sends a letter to those people who have entered dogs for the show including, amongst other things, directions to the venue, judging schedule and the dog's ring number. Take the letter, ring number, a safety pin or clip for the ring number and the dog's registration book and vaccination certificates with you to the show. Also a show lead and a water bowl for the dog. The lead should be clean and of a suitable length for you to handle your dog even in a small ring. Forget flexi leads. You should be on the show ground in good time.
As soon as you get to the venue take your dog to the inspection place as described in the letter. The organisers will check your dog's registration book, vaccinations and sometimes, at random, your dog's identification. Since the beginning of 2007 there is also the possibility that your dog will be subject to a doping test. As soon as you have registered, go and see how the judging is going in your ring so that you are ready to go in as soon as they announce your dog's class. You can also buy a catalogue, which will help you to follow the placings. A dog arriving in the ring too late can only get a quality assessment.
What goes on in the ring
A ring steward will call for the dogs to enter class by class and by the dogs' numbers. Generally the judge first looks at the dogs of each class all together letting them run round the ring counterclockwise and then he will assess each dog individually. The dog must let himself be handled, have his bite and (in the case of male dogs) their testicles checked. Many judges also measure the dog's height at the withers. The judge assesses the dog when he is standing and moving.
In Finland each dog entered to the show gets a written critique and a ribbon showing the placing.
Ribbons of various colours show the quality assessment:
excellent (ERI) pink
very good (EH) red
good (H) blue
satisfactory (T) yellow
disqualified (HYL) grey
cannot be judged (EVA) brown
If the dog gets a blue, yellow, grey or brown ribbon the dog owner can collect the dog's written assessment from the ring steward straight after the class and leave the show if he so wishes. A dog winning a red ribbon will take part in the winners' competition of the particular class upon condition that there are not more than four dogs with 'ERI' in the class.
The steward calls all the dogs entitled to take part in further competition, (ie class placings after the initial assessment) into the ring by calling their numbers. These comprise all dogs with a pink (ERI) ribbon in the quality assessment as well as all those who have got a red (EH) ribbon (unless there were four or more excellent (ERI) placings in the class). If you are unsure do ask the steward. This winners' class will follow immediately after the quality assessment of the particular class. So if your dog has got EH or ERI don't stray far from the ringside.
In the winners' class the judge will place four dogs. The dogs which have got an ERI assessment will be placed before those which have got an EH. If there are more than four ERI qualifications the EH will not be placed.
The winners' class placements are shown with the following colours:
1 red
2 blue
3 yellow
4 green
If you have any questions regarding the judging you can always ask the ring steward. The organisers will let you know what kind of trophies your dog is likely to get and where they can be collected. The show committee must give a rosette for the following achievements and placements: a Certificate, Reserve Certificate, CACIB (International Certificate), Reserve CACIB, Best of Breed, Best Opposite Sex, prize of honour, Finnish Show Champion. A special item must be given for the following achievements and placements: Certificate, CACIB, BOB, BOS, BOB and BOS puppy, BOB and BOS veteran, BOB breeder Class, those placed in the group assessment, the top four placements in Best in Show. The dogs and the bitches are judged in separate classes apart, of course, from the BOB and breeders classes, group competitions and the Best in Show competition. If there is a puppy class in the show then all puppies are judged first. Usually after that all the males are judged starting from the junior class and finally the best dog is chosen. After that all the bitches are judged in the same way.
All those who have got excellent (ERI) and have been placed among the four first in their respective classes will compete for the Certificate (SERT), Reserve Certificate (VARASERT) and then for best dog/best bitch (PU/PN). The Best Veteran in Breed must also get an excellent in order to be able to take part in the best veteran in Show competition.
If the dog has got a pink ribbon in the quality assessment, has been placed among the four first in the winners class and is then placed first in the PU/PN (Best dog and Best Bitch respectively) competition then the winning dog and bitch will compete against each other with the winner being awarded Best of Breed (BOB) and the one placed second Best Opposite Sex (BOS). The BOB will later compete in a Group Competition and if it is placed first in its group the dog will go on to the Best In Show competition.
If the dog is placed the Best Veteran in the veteran competition, it will later compete in the Best Veteran in Show competition.
In the puppy class the dog will get a written criticism but not a ribbon showing the quality assessment. The judge will place four in each class. If the dog/bitch placed first also gets an honour prize (KP) then he/she will continue to the Best Puppy in Group competition. There are only Best Puppy in Show competitions at special shows organized by the breed clubs.
Rovaseudun Pystykorvakerho ry:
Training a barking bird dog
It is very important in the development of the puppy's hunting skills that his first bird should be shot as soon as possible. This is easiest to achieve during the early autumn for when broods are young they fly for relatively short distances
The first hunting trips should be prepared in such a way that they are to areas where there are broods of game birds. Old forests with only tall trees should be avoided at first because a puppy will find broods in young forests more easily.
As soon as a brood is found, just this first time you can shoot the nearest bird, whether the dog has barked at it or not. You must let the puppy take the bird in his mouth and ‘play' with it, getting a feel for it, as long as he wants to. By no means scold the puppy, even if he treats the bird roughly. But do not let the dog eat the bird, and take it out of his mouth carefully. The dog must be praised and as a reward will get the bird's heart, lungs and liver and also its blood. Many spitz men give the bird's leg and foot but these are not easily digestible. When you shoot the first bird make sure that it is at a time when the puppy can see the bird. Then it will pay less attention to the sound of the shot and very often runs to the bird and picks it up. Always be careful when shooting so that the violent force of the shot does not reverberate too hard in the puppy's ears. In most cases the puppy has learnt to bark at a bird by this time and the worst fear of the dog becoming ‘gun shy' has been overcome.
After this first example you should not shoot a bird over the dog unless he is clearly barking at the bird, otherwise he will learn to bark at birds when he doesn't know exactly where they are. If this is the case the dog will then bark at birds that are close by but this bark will not point the hunter to the bird's position and any birds will fly away.
Learning to search
Very few spitz men pay attention to teaching the ‘search' to a spitz. Many of them trust in the dog's own instincts and many don't even think that the search process can be taught. It should be taught, however, if the dog does not manage it naturally.
Finnish Spitz and Nordic Spitz readily follow men. The search, however, should take place mainly by criss-crossing in front or to the sides of the man.
Many dogs can do this instinctively but there are dogs whose search falls back mainly circling behind. In this case you should slow your pace with the result that that the dog will be in front of you - but this fault will repeat itself unless you start teaching the puppy how to search.
The instruction is easiest in a familiar terrain where it is easy to change directions. It is important to choose your direction mainly towards the wind at first so that the dog gets the scent carried by the wind.
When you see the dog you can give him a low whistle to make him pay attention to his master. At this point the hunter will change direction, moving for instance to the right, at the same time showing the direction to the dog by hand signals. You continue like this for a while, change the direction according to the terrain continuing to the right then forward and then to the left until you are back in the original direction. While doing these diversions, you should keep the dog in sight ensuring that he criss-crosses in front of the hunter. If he doesn't, or if he stays away for several minutes you can call him by whistling. When you get to a path you can do a similar kind of exercise by moving to the left side of the path, then again to the right and left until the dog gets accustomed to searching from both sides of the path as you are instructing him. You should not use paths when beginning these search instructions but only when the dog has learnt his lesson. At a later stage moving along a path does not disturb the dog's search but helps you to move silently. If you use paths or forest roads a lot the dog will learn to use them too much instead of moving through the forest itself.
Breaking off from ‘the bark'
A young dog has by no means completed his education when he has leant to search for and bark at a bird. It often happens that when the hunter arrives at the bark, particularly if it has been going on for some time, a young dog will stop barking and come to the hunter. He will often return to the tree where he has been barking but he will also often go back to the area where he was barking and smell the scents on the ground. When the dog gains more experience, however, this habit usually disappears. In this situation you should try to get to the tree where the dog is barking as quickly as possible and try to shoot the bird even if the dog is no longer barking at it. It is also possible to crawl towards the birds. The dog will often arrive at the same point and when the birds start to move it will spot them in the tree. In general you should avoid shooting at a bird when the dog is not there because the dog will soon learn to link the shot with the prey and it can race to an area where other people are shooting.
It can happen that the dog stops barking when another bird flies off from a nearby tree. In this situation the hunter must absolutely stay where he is. When the dog returns and finds his master, he usually starts to bark again. By doing this the dog will quite soon learn to keep his bark constant.
Following
Very often young dogs don't know how to follow a bird on the wing or alternatively do not follow sufficiently far. In that case the puppy should be taught how to follow. The hunter must note the flight direction of the bird and follow it briskly. The easiest time to teach this is when there are young birds, at which time they do not fly so far. Experience teaches us that if the dog is in good condition and if hunting is in his blood this skill improves as he gains more experience. Later in the autumn (when it is easier to follow a bird because the trees are losing their leaves) is the best time to see whether the dog is developing his skills in this area. However, you should remember that when the terrain is difficult even an old dog can have trouble following. Later on you should bear in mind that it would be a good idea to shoot the bird only after the dog has been able to follow it because this will encourage him to do so.
A dog must also be confident that the hunter will always come when he barks. When the bird is settled you can let the dog bark a little longer which will improve the duration of the ‘bark'.
Squirrels and other animals
It is always advisable to move against the wind with the dog or at least give the dog enough time to have a chance of finding all the birds in the terrain. When you cross peat land or open spaces you should not go into the forest before your dog otherwise you might scare the birds.
It is in the spitz blood to bark at squirrels. If a puppy happens to see a squirrel and barks at it then he should not be punished. It often helps to change direction and leave the area where the squirrel is and the dog will follow you. If he doesn't follow, call him. If the puppy is so stubborn that he does not come even when you call him then you should put him on a lead and take him far enough away that he will forget the squirrel. If he barks at several squirrels in a terrain where there are also birds, then you should scold him. Physical punishment is still not recommended. A very practical way of stopping this habit of barking at squirrels is to put a young dog on a lead and tie him to the tree where he has been barking while the owner goes away down wind and out of the dog's sight. You don't need to repeat this very often.
Finnish Spitz and Nordic Spitz may also chase hare and reindeer. Often this only happens for a short while but there have been cases where it has developed into something more permanent. This is a much bigger fault than barking at squirrels because here the dog usually gets tired and also scares away the birds in the area. In this situation, when a strong scolding doesn't work the dog must be put on a lead and in a careful manner shown your disapproval. If it happens again the second punishment can be a little stronger. You must continue to try to eliminate this habit patiently and without getting angry.
Many spitz also bark at elk. If you let this continue the dog will usually lose his interest in birds when older. If you want to stop him barking at elk you should try to do this by going to terrains where there is the least chance of meeting them and showing the dog by other means that you are not interested in elk.
Treat your spitz in accordance with his temperament
Spitz can have many different characteristics. They can be calm and steady but also very hotheaded. Sometimes these impetuous dogs jump against the tree while they bark, at which the bird flies away, of course. Probably the only way of curing this fault is by shooting birds in front of the dog as often as possible. Luckily our spitz breeds seldom have this bad fault. Very often we see spitz that are given to barking too much. This kind of dog also barks for no reason, particularly when the weather is dry and windy. Even if the owner learns to recognise a false bark by its sound this is a very annoying fault and is usually incurable. This is why you should not use these dogs for breeding.
Teaching a spitz puppy is a demanding but fascinating task. If we don't understand and allow for the puppy's character we will most probably fail. On the other hand, assuming that we really possess the skill and patience needed, we will gain great satisfaction when we see that we have been able to train a good hunting dog. And this feeling will return again and again for as long as we have the opportunity to hunt with such a dog.
When we teach a puppy we ourselves
are also learning. If we learn patience and
self-control from this we have gained a great deal!
Information section and Vesa Väänänen
From puppy to elk hunter
When a new puppy arrives at his new home it is an important moment. A dog is always part of the family and must have appropriate conditions for growing and living in his new home. Before you make the decision to take on a dog think it over carefully and decide if you have enough time and energy to train him up to a hunting dog.
The Karelian Bear Dog is a hunting dog that longs for exercise and for the forest. A dog joining your family will bring some restrictions into your life. This new member of the family will need time and care.
The best environment for a puppy to grow up in is the wide-open yard of a farmhouse. It is also possible to keep a Karelian Bear Dog in populated areas, in detached houses in particular, where you can build a kennel or put in a running line. A block of flats is not a suitable home for an energetic Karelian Bear Dog.
Where should you go for a puppy? A dog gets hi characteristics from his parents. The only official gauge for measuring the achievements of elk hunting dogs is an elk barking trial. If both of the dog's parents are working champions then you might suppose that their puppies would also become good elk hunting dogs. It is not always that simple, however. So it is worth asking for advice from the breed organisation's litter advisors.
Once the puppy arrives his new owner will face several new issues. Questions concerning the puppy's feeding should be put to the breeder. When considering what kind of feed you want to give to your dog, don't just go for the cheapest.
Training the dog in the forest
When the dog is 4-5 months old you can start his training in the forest. Short visits to a forest should preferably be to an area where there are no elk. You should walk slowly and when you lose sight of the dog you should stop and wait for him. This way the dog will learn to trust his master and he will grow courageous in the forest.
You should teach your puppy to travel in a car when he is still very young. If he is afraid of being in the car, talk to him calmly. When you stop the car at the end of the trip, there should be something nice and pleasant waiting for him, such as a walk in the forest.
You should also teach your dog to wait alone in the car: leave him there for a short while and then increase the time little by little so that the dog learns to think of the car as another home. Later in life there will most probably be situations where your dog has to stay alone in the car for example at a trial or when out hunting.
You can teach your dog the sound of a distinctive call. Start this early when calling the puppy to his dish to eat or when you want to give him a tidbit. The call can be made using a whistle or horn or by whistling. It is important that the dog recognizes his master's call. You can also train him to this call in the forest, but not too often. The call should be used to point out something interesting to the dog, such as an elk's track.
Call the dog to you every once in a while and then reward him with a favourite tidbit. To teach the dog that his lead is not an object of fear or hate, put him on the lead and then let him loose straight away and do this on and off.
As his experience grows, you can lengthen your walks. However, you must be careful not to over-tire the puppy. When he gets exhausted he will lose interest and this can lead to saturation point. A growing dog needs a lot of rest. A walk in the forest should follow a day or two of rest. A suitable amount of training could be two or three times a week.
The first time the dog barks at game it could be at a squirrel or a bird. It could also be a hare. Do not scold your dog but just go on walking paying no attention to the barking or chasing. This way the dog will learn which game his master is not keen on.
The dog must become inured to gunshot. You should start with quieter shots such as those from a small-bore rifle or even by clapping two pieces of wood together. Let your dog discover that after the shooting there might be something interesting on the ground where it took place, such as an elk bone.
Training to bark at elk
Dogs have truly individual characters. Some puppies as young as six months of age may be ready to work with elk, whereas others may require double that time. If your dog is plucky and has adapted to your forest training then now is the time to take him to encounter elk.
You should approach a place where elks might be from down wind, slowly and without making a sound. You should move forward only when the dog comes to you. When the dog is searching, stop and wait for him. Let your dog have time to find the elk by himself.
When the dog begins to bark, wait quietly down wind to listen. Wait for an hour before you start to approach the place where the dog is barking. When the dog comes up to make contact with you, you should encourage him to continue working. Approach the elk carefully, in a manner that shows the dog that you are interested in it. If it is the hunting season and you have a hunting permit to shoot an elk then there is no better circumstance than when the dog is barking for the first time.
If the elk runs away, make it clear to your dog that you are interested in it. You should both try to follow the elk so that the dog learns that his job is not over when the elk runs away.
If your dog's interest in the elk has not been sparked by the beginning of the hunting season, visiting a place where an elk has been shot down could kindle this interest. The dog must be given plenty of time to become familiar with it, and you should encourage him and praise him.
Don't teach your dog to bark together with other dogs. If you do, he will soon learn this habit and will always go to a place where he hears barking. Even worse, when he has learnt to work with another dog he may not be interested enough to bark at an elk alone.
Shoot the first elk for your dog from a standing bark (shooting a galloping elk may make your dog a driving dog). Once your dog has learnt the ropes he will not be influenced by incorrect habits when he is older.
Hints on training an elk dog
- Accustom your dog to water. Karelian Bear Dogs are seldom afraid of water and like to swim. However, never throw the dog in, or make him go into the water against his will.
- Teach your dog to follow a blood trail. Start with the puppy by pulling a bone or piece of meat on a cord along the ground. There must always be a reward like a tidbit waiting for him at the end of the trail. When the dog gains more experience you can move on to the blood trail and increase the requirements step by step.
- Do not prohibit your dog from barking. When he is barking at bones and objects the puppy's play is also pre-training for a hunting situation. By stopping him barking you may cause him to avoid barking at anything when his master is present - even an elk.
- If the puppy was too young when first taken to the forest he may get a lifelong fear of angry elk. A rutting elk bull may go for the dog.
- Do not betray the dog's trust. Never leave a young dog alone in the forest. When the dog is working with an elk try to follow in his tracks so that when he wants to make contact with his master he will find him easily.
- Get your dog into good condition before the autumn by cycling with him or by taking him for a swim.
A dog under 5 months of age can be let loose in an area where his handler has the license to hunt. It is also worth going to the forest outside the hunting season with an older dog.
- Don't let a young dog bark too much before hunting. He may become bored without any prey.
- Remember that after stress the dog needs plenty of rest. Loss of condition results in a lack of eagerness to hunt. A dog in top condition may very well work on two consecutive days but after this should have a longer break of several days.
- Do not lend your dog to a stranger. Karelian Bear Dogs are one-man dogs.
- At the very latest as soon as you have bought your first puppy (preferably beforehand) go to a course for elk trial judges. During the course and when working as a judge you gain valuable information about how an elk behaves and how a dog works.
Sources: Articles by Pohja Karhukoirayhdistys and Martti Liukkonen as well as the author's own experiences.
Heidi Lahtinen
The dog's medicine chest and basic health care
A ‘dog's medicine chest' should be equipped with some first aid requirements in case of small injuries and accidents.
A kit against snake bites (Kyypakkaus)
A snakebite or wasp bite may be lethal to a puppy or a frail old dog. Even a healthy adult dog can be seriously affected if the poison swells the respiratory passages so that they close.
Always have a snake kit handy when you are in the forest. Immediate first aid is essential. If a puppy is bitten the poison may make him go into shock, which causes the body temperature to drop. Keep the puppy warm and contact a vet.
Dosage, snake kit:
- Dogs under 10kg: 1 tablet
- 10-20kg: 2 tablets
- Over 20k: 3 tablets
When a snake has bitten the dog you should always contact a vet in order to get additional information. The bitten area may become infected later on.
Paraffin oil
You should always keep a 200ml bottle of paraffin oil in your medicine chest. This can be bought at any pharmacy. You can use paraffin oil orally as a first aid when you think that the dog may be suffering from constipation or intestinal obstruction. If the dog stands with his back arched, looking in pain and with his stomach muscles taut you should dose him orally with paraffin oil using a syringe a few times a day. Dosage according to the dog's weight is calculated as 10-20ml (2-4 tea spoons) per 10kg. If the discomfort does not go away in 24 hours or if the dog is in agony contact a vet.
Continuous vomiting may also be a symptom of partial intestinal obstruction.
For diarrhoea
When a dog has diarrhoea you can empty his bowels first with paraffin oil. On top of this you can give him some medicinal carbon, which will bind fermenting gas and, together with the paraffin oil, calm the bowels. There are also various medicinal products available from chemists. Medicinal carbon is also good for first aid in cases of poisoning.
A dog with diarrhoea should be put on a fast for as long as its bowels take to settle down. You must remember to watch the dog's fluid balance. You can estimate the fluid balance by lifting the skin on the neck: if the resulting crease flattens out within 1-4 seconds the fluid balance is all right, when slightly dehydrated it will take 4-7 seconds and when severely dehydrated over 7 seconds. When a dog is dehydrated water is not sufficient to restore his fluid balance. It is a good idea to have some kind of an electrolyte solution such as Canikur on hand at home. Even the following is better than just water: dissolve a large spoonful of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt into one deciliter of water.
For wounds
A dog likes to lick his wounds but this does not, contrary to popular belief, help the wounds to heal. In fact, the bacteria on the dog's tongue and the rubbing prevent the wound from healing and may even exacerbate the situation.
Small wounds and skin irritation usually get better on their own so long as you stop the dog from licking. It is a good idea to spray on some wound spray with a strong smell, which will disinfect and treat the place at the same time. A suitable product for this would be Cothivet available from pharmacies.
Tweezers and a syringe
You should at least have the following objects in the medicine chest for you dog:
- Tick tweezers
- A fast thermometer
- A 50ml syringe
When to go to the vet.
It is always best to contact the vet when you feel you should. Even if a visit to the vet's surgery is not considered necessary a professional can give the best advice including how to treat the dog at home. Contact with the vet. is vital in the following cases:
- The animal's condition is causing concern (seizures, no strength to move).
- Accidents if they are not minor.
- Poisoning.
- Difficulties in giving birth.
- The dog cannot urinate.
- If the animal has had an abnormal temperature for over two days.
- If he has been vomiting for more than a day.
- Diarrhoea lasting for 2-3 days.
- The animal urinates repeatedly.
- If an animal under two weeks old becomes ill.
- The animal has a persistent cough.
- The animal drinks an abnormal amount.
Sources:
Tapani Parviainen: Lemmikkien kotihoidon opas
Saki Paatsama: Terve ja sairas koira
Esa Soppela
Anal problems
When a dog, which has been working well, stops, the cause for this could be found in his rear end. Anal glands are sore when infected and make lengthy barking sessions when working with an elk very unpleasant for the dog. If he licks his infected rear the dog may also infect his throat.
Excretion sacs called anal glands are on both sides of the dog's anus. In a medium dog each gland is about the size of a peanut. They get emptied through discharge holes in the folds of the anus. In a normal situation this is excreted when the dog empties his bowels when the ‘constricting' muscles are working properly. Normal anal excretion has a strong and bad smell that even humans can smell. Glands and their excretion are normal parts of the dog. Sometimes you hear people saying that a bad smelling excretion is an illness, but this is seldom the case.
Anal gland is an established name, so I will not even try to change it in this article. The truth is, however, that this ‘anal gland' is a small bag for storing and not a gland. There are two kinds of small glands on its walls and these produce excretion into this bag.
The anal excretion acts as a means of communication among animals. Nowadays these glands have less use as a means of communication but have become the cause of many small problems. The glands are a relic left over from the time when dogs were wild and they are not necessary for dogs in the present day.
Usually the excretion from the glands is liquid and it is light yellowish grey in colour. The glands get emptied when the dog empties its bowels. This normal function may be disrupted if the excretion becomes thick or even dry. Problems may also occur if there is overproduction of the excretion, the functioning of the constricting muscles of the anus reduces or the excretion becomes runny. The outlet may then get blocked and this will cause a fermentation reaction within the glands as well as inflammation and infection.
Both dogs and bitches have the same anal problems. It can also affect dogs of all ages. Small breeds are the most affected by anal problems but unfortunately it affects dogs of all sizes.
A dog with anal gland problems will lick and gnaw at them and drag his rear along the ground. All this may cause an inflammation around the anus. Continuous licking of an infected anus may also cause inflammation of the dog's throat, which in turn may cause coughing and hacking. Other symptoms may include problems with defecation, chasing the tail, bad smells from the anus, gnawing at and licking of the hip area and aggressive behaviour when you touch his rear end.
You can feel the glands when they are full, like small balloons each side of the anus. They lie at the positions four and eight o'clock in the anus. If a gland gets blocked and becomes infected this point may show through as a red spot on the skin, too. The gland may even burst straight through the skin.
A blocked anal gland must be emptied regularly at least once a week for several weeks until normal activity can be restored. You should not use too much pressure when emptying or you will damage the anal gland or the rectum. The best way to empty a gland is to put on a glove and take a full gland between your index finger and your thumb. It is possible to almost empty many dogs' glands by ‘rubbing down' both glands at the same time from the outside. If the gland is infected or badly blocked leave it to the vet. If this problem happens regularly the owner should also learn how to empty glands to avoid them becoming inflamed.
Treatment of infected glands involves emptying and rinsing the glands and then using an antibiotic cream. In some cases of inflammation antibiotics can be used orally. If the glands get blocked and become inflamed on a regular basis an operation for their removal is recommended.
Occasionally an apocryphal story that anal glands are the main reason for a dog's poor sense of smell does the rounds of the hunting fraternity. I have heard such comments as: ‘you cannot have a winning dog without having its anal glands removed'. This is nonsense of course. If anal glands caused such a big problem to the sense of smell, animals of the wild dog family would all have become extinct a long time ago.
When the glands are being pressed and a foul smelling excretion comes out of them it is not a sign of an abnormality. The glands produce excretion normally all the time and this empties when the dog empties its bowels. But when anal glands get jammed and infected, that is a state that certainly disturbs the dog in his hunting and the symptoms as described above will be evident.
The author is a vet who qualified in Helsinki in 1986 and specialises in small animals. Since graduating, Soppela has worked in numerous surgeries for small animals around Finland as well as in the hospital for small animals at the University of Helsinki. His longest job so far has been his present one in Eläinlääkäriasema Akuutti in Oulu.
Esa Soppela is a keen rambler who got his first hunting license when he was 15 years old. This article was first published in the magazine Hirvikoira 1/2000.
Heidi Lahtinen
False Pregnancy
Does your bitch become dejected and unsociable all of a sudden? Does she look for quiet places and even make a nest in the middle of a hunting trip perhaps under a spruce? Does she whine and become bad tempered? This is not necessarily anything worse than a false pregnancy. Even though it is not dangerous, it can cause a great deal of trouble.
Minor symptoms of false pregnancy, slight swelling of the teats and emission of a little milk are part of a normal oestrus. However, a false pregnancy becomes a nuisance when the bitch starts to make a nest, treats objects as her puppies, declines food and defends her nest aggressively against people and other dogs.
70 per cent of bitches have various kinds of physical symptoms of false pregnancy 3-13 weeks after the heat. Whether or not the bitch has already had puppies makes no difference. Symptoms may appear even after the first heat. Overweight bitches are often worst affected, so it is a good idea to take a fat bitch out for cycling exercise to make her lose weight before the next season. Sometimes the symptoms lessen somewhat if you let the bitch have a litter.
In a less severe case it may be sufficient to give the bitch a lot of exercise and halve her food rations. As to medication, antigalactic (for diminishing or arresting the secretion of milk) has proved to be better for false pregnancy treatment than traditional hormonal medication.
Sources: Helena Koskentalo: Parempaan pentutulokseen - koirankasvattajan käsikirja
Tapani Parviainen: Lemmikkien kotihoidon opas
Saki Paatsama: Terve ja sairas koira
Heidi Lahtinen
Feeding a growing puppy
A dog puppy grows almost visibly during its first few months. At 8 to 10 months a hunting spitz has more or less reached its final height at the withers. During this period of fast growth you should take care that the puppy's diet includes enough ingredients in the correct proportions.
A dog's structure is influenced not only by inheritance but also by his diet while growing. A puppy that only gets leftovers and porridge will suffer from nutrient and vitamin deficit and this will cause faults and leg malformation by the time the puppy has finished growing. Feeding a dog is not rocket science and there are many "right" ways of feeding a dog. It is worth investing in a good diet for the puppy's first six months - faults in the diet of a more mature dog and old dog does not often cause irreversible harm. You should also bear in mind that overfeeding minerals and vitamins is as harmful as the lack of them. If you feed your puppy with a complete food you should not give any calcium or vitamin extras.
You should ask the puppy's breeder about his diet. Changes in diet should be carried out little by little.
Home cooked food?
If you asked the puppy what he would choose it would be simply delicious home cooked food. You can give him suitable leftovers in his bowl but they should not be the staple diet of a growing dog.
If you prefer to feed your dog with plain home food then it should be cooked specifically for the puppy. A good basic formula is a mix of 1/3 of grain (oats, barley, dark rice, buckwheat, millet and also wheat unless the dog is allergic to it), 1/3 of vegetables (carrots and other root vegetables, preferably not potatoes), 1/3 of meat or fish, also offal. On top of this you can add cottage cheese, egg (not raw whites), sour cream or sour milk. You should cut the ingredients into small bits and coarsely grate the root crop. Oven-cook the food slowly. You can also add raw meat to a ready cooked food mixture. Fish, on the other hand, should be well cooked.
There is not enough calcium or phosphorus in home cooked food so you need to add vitamins. There are products available at pharmacies that are worth using for the first six months.
Or complete meals?
Giving your puppy dry complete meals is easier than feeding it with home cooked food. Complete meals include all the goodness the dog needs and you should not add anything to it. Good dry food is such that the puppy likes to eat it, it is easy to digest and it results in small stools which keeps the puppy's stomach healthy and his skin, coat, eyes and ears in good condition.
The most expensive food is not always the best because trademarks cost money, although the ingredients in the more expensive feed are often of better quality than those in the less expensive feed. However, it is better to feed the puppy with food of affordable price from a super market than to give him porridge or leftovers with little nutritional content. A puppy's diet should include sufficient good quality protein (25-27%). A dog can make better use of animal protein than of plant protein. The percentage of raw fibre content should stay below 5% because a higher raw fibre content may be due to waste plant feed of low quality.
If the puppy is a glutton you should soak the dried food before serving it or alternatively add water to at least the same volume as the food before putting it down. Food devoured without any water can easily cause stomach upset.
If you mix complete dog food and, for example, half home-cooked food remember to add vitamins and minerals into the home-cooked food.
Regular meal times
At first you should keep to the same feeding schedule for the puppy that he had at his breeder's home. As a rule, a puppy ready to go to his new home gets four meals a day, a 3-4 months old puppy three, six months old two and a one year old can manage on one meal a day.
It does not matter how many times you feed but you should keep in mind the saying ‘you get what you are given'. If the food given to the dog does not disappear in ten minutes then you should take the bowl away until his next feeding time. A growing dog should get as much food as he can eat at one time (apart from some giant breeds). You should remember that dried food is real food and you should not leave it in the dog bowl as a kind of snack, which he can pick at whenever he pleases. When food is only served at regular feeding times his bowels will work more regularly and it will be easier to keep the puppy house clean.
If the food is of good quality, the bowl is clean and the dog is healthy, you should not worry if the dog shows occasional fastidiousness. Dogs have seldom committed suicide by being on a hunger strike, in other words if the dog didn't fancy the food this particular feeding time (an adult dog today) then it will certainly taste better next time (for an adult dog tomorrow). A puppy's occasional lack of appetite may have something to do with his stage of development, such as teething. An adult may show lack of appetite due to being in season. If you try to persuade the dog by offering him delicacies you can easily make him fussy with food. Even though spitz bitches in particular are traditionally considered to be quite exacting with their food very fussy specimens are luckily very rare.
Enough water
Dogs cannot digest the milk sugar in milk easily and it can easily cause diarrhoea. Sour milk and other sour products suit the puppy's stomach better and even help balance the stomach's digestion when, for instance, there is a change in diet.
There should always be plenty of fresh water available. If the puppy practises diving exercises into his bowl or laps it all the time just for a pastime you could offer him water several times a day and keep an eye on it, for example when you give him his meal. The same can be done in the winter with a dog living outside (when the water freezes) unless he has a water bowl that keeps the water warm or a warm place for eating and drinking. The dog's need of water is too much for him to be able to satisfy it by just eating snow.
Avoid these:
- chocolate for humans and xylitol are harmful to dogs, sometimes even fatal
- raw fish and raw egg whites prevent the absorption of vitamin B
- the dog can get tapeworms contamination from raw wild fish
- the dog cannot digest raw vegetables unless they have been mashed quite small. If you use the BARF diet, then you should always cook the vegetables
- potato is a great source of carbohydrate but only if cooked and mashed. Not all dogs can digest potatoes even like this
- too many onions can cause anemia.
- artificial colourants, flavourings and preservatives also risk giving dogs allergies. Don't choose your complete dried dog food by the colour but rather by its nutritional values, ease of digestion and taste.
- bones from pigs, sheep and chickens are not suitable for dogs because they may splinter and these can get into the digestive tract walls with fatal consequences. If you give too much gristle it can cause constipation although given occasionally it can help in emptying the anal glands naturally. Large beef and elk bones are usually safe to gnaw. However, if you notice that an adult dog is making the bone splinter it should be taken away to be on the safe side.
The following has been collated by Johanna Pietikäinen from Keski-Suomen Eläinsuojeluyhdistys (animal protection association of Central Finland)
Feeding is of great importance in reducing stress when working or taking part in a competition
Feeding during the hunting season
The nutritive substances needed by working and competing dogs are unique. Hard work and competition cause both physical (training, competing) and mental (transportation, noise, spectators, temperature) stress to the dog.
It is not sufficient to pay attention simply to the greater energy needs due to increased muscle exertion on the part of a working dog but attention should also be paid to the need of additional nutrients due to the stress caused by this exertion. The feed should also help in the dog's recovery from a feat of hard work, from a competition or from a strain injury and to maintain the dog's resistance in stress situations caused by physical exertion.
The food should include fat, protein, carbohydrates and fibre in correct proportions so that the energy content of the diet can be maximized. On the other hand, the contents and quantity in the digestive tract must be minimized while at the same time keeping the digestive tract functioning in an effective way. With a diet that includes plenty of fat you can increase the dog's stamina and high protein content should help prevent the dog from getting any strain injuries or anemia due to exertion.
Fat in diets
The need for energy is regulated by the dog's breed, weight, age, amount of exercise and the ambient temperature. Therefore it is difficult to assess the energy needs of a particular dog. How much and what kind of exercise has an influence in the choice of sources for producing the energy. If the work is a short-term intensive job, the energy needed increases by 10-20%. For hunting, driving game and sheepdogs the energy need doubles on average, depending of course on the amount of exertion required. A rule of thumb is that the energy needs increase by 10% on average for each hour the dog is working.
For working dogs that work for several hours without stopping, feed that includes plenty of fat is a better choice than feed that includes an abundance of carbohydrates. Unlike people, the dog is a highly aerobic animal and 70-90% of its energy comes from free fatty acids during long-term exertion. Apart from the amount of fat you should also pay attention to the quality of the fat. A dog can use all kinds of animal and vegetable fat very well and their digestibility is 93-98%. The energy and fat in the feed of working and competing dogs should be such that the dog's muscle cells can make use of them quickly, so suet, lard, chicken fat and coconut butter should form 55-60% of all fat in the dog's diet. Omega-3 fatty acids (linseed, turnip rape and fish oils) have a local property in preventing inflammation in the large intestine. They also play an important role in the maintenance of the mucous membrane of the intestines and cell membranes of the muscles. An appropriate amount of such oils is 15 grams a day (maximum 5% of one meal). The relation of Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids in a dog feed should be between 5:1 - 10:1.
The quality of the protein is important
Lots of exercise increases the protein need of a working dog particularly when the amount and type of exertion are increased rapidly, for instance at the beginning of a hunting season or at a competition. The diet must include animal and vegetable proteins of high quality. Feed suitable for working dogs includes plenty of energy and fat and must have a rather high protein content, some 30-35% of the food's dry matter. Diets where 32-40% of energy is produced by the protein will increase the number of the red cells, the volume of the plasma and the maximum oxygen uptake compared with diets where less than 24% of energy is obtained from proteins.
Stress and insufficient intake of proteins may lead to anemia and increase the probability of muscle damage. The digestibility of high quality animal proteins such as meat, offal and milk is over 90%. Protein of poor quality can cause severe digestive troubles because movement accelerates the speed of food through the digestive tract. If there is not enough time for its digestion there will not be enough time for the enzymes to split the protein and the non-digested protein is partly passed on to the large intestine causing the dog to have diarrhoea. If a complete dried dog food bought from a shop causes alimentary problems in the dog then you should check the proportions and kind of vegetable protein it contains and how much.
Grains are the most important source of carbohydrates in a dog's diet. You can use many kinds of grain in a dog's diet such as oats, barley, wheat, maize, rice and durra. Of these the dog can make the best use of rice, peeled oats and wheat. You should always cook the grain you serve the dog. A dog involved in long-term working sessions should have a diet which includes a rather low carbohydrate content of 10-20% because compared with the fats, the carbohydrates increase the amount of food and excretion much more and lower the energy content of the food.
Take care to supply sufficient water
For the dog's performance it is as important for him to get enough water, as to get enough energy-giving food. A working dog needs as much as 1-2 litres of water when resting and up to 5 litres when working hard.
During stress about 60 % of the extra heat generated leaves the dog's body through moisture as he pants. For this reason working dogs must be provided with sufficient water immediately after exertion. It is recommended that the dog should also be offered small amounts of water during any heavy working session. Cold fluids are absorbed more quickly than warm ones.
Feeding times
You should leave at least 6-8 hours between the feeding time and exercise but the dog is at its best 12-14 hours after it has been fed. Feeding before heavy exertion adds to the body weight of the dog too much because the contents of the stomach and the bowels increase. In the morning three hours before exercise the dog can be served a small portion of food with some fluid.
This article has been published as a part of a wider article on the Internet (web pages of Keski-Suomen Eläinsuojeluyhdistys www.ksesy.fi )
Sources: Ajokoiramies 5/2004 and Koiran Stressi by Miinu Mäkelä www.kotiposti.net/teddy
Additional information and advice concerning the feeding of working dogs available from Riitta Kempe at the research centre of MTT in Ypäjä, E-mail: Riitta.Kempe@mtt.fi
The ABC of bird barking and elk barking trials
Experienced visitors to these trials will answer all the questions you have perhaps never dared to ask. I hope that this basic information will make you interested in these worthwhile activities!
How do I enter my dog for a trial?
You will find a trial calendar in the July-August issue of Koiramme magazine and also quite often on the web pages of some organisations such as SPJ, SHHJ, SLJ. There will be a note in the trial information as to whether the number of dogs allowed to participate is limited or not. In the LINT (bird) trials there could be restrictions due to a limited number of trial terrains. Limited participation can also be due to the fact that there have been elimination contests or some other selection rule (please see www.spj.fi > säännöt ja ohjeet)
You should preferably enter your dog by filling in a form. These forms are available in the web pages of the Finnish Kennel Club: www.kennelliitto.fi/FI/kokeet
Enter your dog in good time and take care to pay the entrance fee according to the organisers' instructions. There is always a telephone number in the trial details and you can get further information from there if needed.
Where to get a judge?
When you take part in a LINT trial you must bring one authorized judge with you.
In HIRV (elk) trials the dogs are judged by two judges one of whom has to be an experienced judge with a license for HIRV trials. The other can be a trainee judge or someone else well versed in hunting elk with a dog. In a HIRV AVO (open class) only, someone licensed to work as a HIRV chief judge is allowed to judge this class alone.
You could ask for help in finding a judge from your dog's breeder or anyone else you know who goes to working trials. If you don't know anyone you can ask the trial organisers for help.
At the beginning of your trial career it is well worth taking part in a judging course where you will meet other judges. Judges often ‘swap'. I will judge for you on Saturday and you will do the same for me on Sunday!
What sort of fitness condition and skills are needed?
A The dog
At a LINT trial the dog should be able to mainly run for about three hours without any long breaks. The dog should make contact with his handler in an ideal case every 5-15 minutes and should search for the birds far enough away that the people in the group will not scare them off.
In a trial the dog is looking for black grouse, capercaillie and their hen birds. He should drive the bird up into a tree and bark at it for at least ten minutes. Even after this time the dog should not stop barking unless the bird flies off. The dog handler is asked before the trial whether he wants to include hazel-grouse in the trial or not.
In a HIRV trial the dog should be able to perform at least some kind of a search and when an elk is found the dog should bark at it on the spot for at least an hour and start another bark when the elk runs away. One trial lasts five hours and if everything goes as it should the dog will find an elk about a kilometer away and will bark at it for two hours. The judge will go to where the dog is barking to see the elk and the dog. The judge will then make the elk run away and the dog will follow and start to bark again. This continues until the elk has been driven away for 4 kilometers (this usually takes a couple of hours), then the last hour should be used to calm down the animal and let the dog bark at it on the spot.
In both trial types the dog must stop working and allow himself to be put on a lead when the trial is over.
When the dog is young he should learn that sometimes he will go to the forest as part of a bigger group, not just on his own with his handler.
B
The handler
At a LINT (bird) trial during the four-hour session a range of some 4-7 km will be covered. The purpose is to let the dog search the terrain before you get to where he has been yourself.
At a HIRV (elk) trial any person in a normal physical condition able to walk in a forest will manage.
Equipment will be regulated by weather conditions. Sometimes you will have to jump over a stream or ditch. Regionally trial terrains vary and therefore in some regions a topographic map shows more contour lines than in others. The dog handler drives the judge/group of judges and guide (where needed) to the trial ground. Established practice varies in different parts of the country as to coffee and snacks served during the trial: should the dog handler have them in his rucksack or does everyone have his own packed lunch? You should ask the organisers what to do.
Have a bottle of water for the dog with you!
Avoid loud discussion. Ask the judge in advance what is expected of you when a bird/elk has been found.
A radio collar
At a LINT trial the dog can wear one round his neck but it cannot be used until the trial is over.
At a HIRV trial it can be used if the dog's handler wants to.
What else?
A dog handler is allowed to take someone else on the trials but it is always better for the dog when the group is as small as possible. There are no lower age limits for a dog handler but a good rule of thumb is that he should be able to walk in the terrain at the same pace as the rest of the group and that he can also handle the dog (for example be able to put him on a lead after the trial session).
You should arrive at the trial place in good time. The dog handler gives the dog's registration book and proof of vaccination to the organisers. Identification is checked by random sampling.
When the trial is over, there is often a meal served at the trial centre and also often a place to wash. The judges give their reports to the chief judge.
When all contestants have returned from the terrain, the results are made public. The trial will last in all from dawn till dusk.
A two weeks open trial AVO
The easiest way to begin going to trials is to enter the dog in a so-called 2 weeks open class trial. In such a trial you can choose the terrain yourself and it can even be your own hunting grounds. The only requirement is that either the dog's handler or the judge is licensed to hunt in that area and thus the dog can be let loose. The terrain must also be within the area covered by the kennel district that is organizing the trial or in its neighbouring community.
It is easier for a young dog to start its trial career in a familiar terrain and the handler will also have some kind of idea as to where the game is to be found and how much game there is in the area.
The dog is entered the same way as in one-day trials. The dog taking part in such a trial must:
- be at least 9 months old
- bear identification by a chip or a tattoo
- be vaccinated according to Finnish Kennel Club regulations
- The trial starts with a get-together at an opening meeting. The judge gives his instructions to the judges and the participants get their terrain cards.
The dog handler will find an eligible judge for his dog - just one for a LINT trial, but for a HIRV two judges or one chief judge. A beginner should ask the organisers for a judge if there is none in his circle of acquaintances.
The chief judge must be informed of the time and terrain where the trial will be held and this must be within the set two weeks. If the weather conditions are hopeless during those two weeks, the time may be changed once. In this case the chief judge must be informed immediately and he will be the one to approve the move.
The judge/judges will go through what has happened in the trial and show the incident card to the chief judge as soon as possible after the trial session. When the whole two weeks trial is over there will be a final meeting where the results are announced and there is a prize giving.
If the dog gets a first prize in the open class he is entitled to compete in a winners' class only after the long trial has ended and the final results have been published.
Remember that a dog entering the winners' class must also have a show result!
Text collated by Anne-Mari Tiainen
LINT trial in a nutshell
Trials are an interesting dog sport. Trial activities never overstress the game stock even if it is not a good year for birds. Above all you will learn to watch the way your dog works from a new angle and at the same time you will get another new and interesting perspective on hunting and dog pastimes.
The purpose of ‘bird barking trials' is to develop the aptitude of the hunting spitz breeds in bird hunting and to obtain information for breeding purposes. A high prize gained at a trial is a guarantee that it is a good working dog and at the same time suitable for breeding. The trials also aim at maintaining the high standards of the dog sport as regards bird hunting, offer a possibility to compete and develop cooperation between people interested in this hobby.
What a trial entails
A trial starts with a briefing by the chief judge stating the main points of regulations in the trials and instructions for moving in the terrains during the trial sessions. A draw for terrain and judge for each participant follows this. The choice of trial terrain is dependent on there being sufficient birds in the area for the dog's potential to be judged. In 2007 the trial rules were changed so that a trial session now lasts for four hours and there is no longer an option for a lengthening of the trial time. The game birds include capercaillie, black grouse, and if the dog owner so wishes, hazel-grouse.
In a forest the dog is allowed to search for the game independently in the terrain in front. A judge according to whose instructions the dog owner acts is in charge of the trial group.
There is also often a guide in the group who knows the terrain well. The judge orders the walking order of the group to be such that the dog handler goes first followed closely by the judge. Other people in the group follow at such a distance that they disturb the trial as little as possible.
The judge orders the general direction in which to go keeping in mind the instructions from the guide and reasonable requests from the dog's handler. Going down-wind should be avoided. In particular when there is a strong wind and the group must briefly go down-wind, you should make certain that the dog is to the fore. The judge will give his instructions as to how the group should behave during the trials. You should always avoid unnecessary discussion particularly in raised voices.
Regulations concerning the dog's handler
The dog's handler must carefully follow all instructions and orders given by the judge. The dog's handler is only allowed to put his dog on a lead without permission when he wants to give up the trial for a good reason, if the dog has gone outside the trial terrain or if an obvious danger is threatening. The judge must be informed immediately of the reason for putting the dog on a lead. The dog's handler has a right to make reasonable requests during the trial session such as in which direction he should go but he is not allowed to disturb the running of the trial by constant requests. The dog's handler has the right to control his dog by whistling, hand signs and quiet instructions and also to stop the dog in the case of misconduct, but not by using any violence. If the dog's handler does not obey instructions, contravenes the rules, disturbs the group's work or otherwise acts contrary to good practice, then the judge must exclude the dog from the trial. The reason for the exclusion must be reported to the chief judge. The dog's handler must behave in a friendly and polite manner towards the judge and the guide and to remember that it is not acceptable to tell the judge about the dog's earlier achievements before he has given his final results.
When required the dog's handler must take part in the chief judge's briefing before the trial as well as obey all the special instructions for the trial given by the chief judge, the judge and the trial committee. After the trial the dog's handler has the right to be present when the judge explains the trial events to the chief judge. Many judges and chief judges wish that dogs' handlers would make better use of this right. Before the points for the dog's performance are given the dog's handler will leave.
Judging the dog
A judge who is well-versed in hunting with spitz breeds and who has passed a judge's training course judges the dog's bird hunting skill. The judge's task is to follow the dog's work in the terrain during the trial and to give an assessment according to the trial rules.
Searching means the dog moving through the terrain aiming at finding game birds. The dog's searching is excellent when it moves in a purposeful manner for the most part galloping, the search area being some 250 - 400 meters to the front and sides of the group. The search also includes contacting the handler every 5 - 15 minutes on average.
Finding ability means the dog's ability to find the game birds in the terrain regardless whether they are on the ground or up in the trees. If the dog manages to find all the game birds that are in the trial terrain it will get the highest possible mark for ‘finding'.
Marking means the dog's ability to show by his position and behaviour where the bird is when he is barking at it. In practical terms (ie when actually hunting) the end result depends on how exact his marking is.
Sound (giving sound, the dog's voice when barking) should tell the hunter that the dog has found a bird in a tree and should prevent the bird from hearing the hunter approaching. It is excellent when it is quick enough (at least 100 barks a minute) and also loud, even and harmonious.
Keeping means the dog's ability to keep the bird at the bark. In practical hunting the meaning of this is to make the bird sit listening to the barking until the hunter has time to arrive. In a trial the dog will get top marks for ‘keeping' when it has had at least three ten minute long barking sessions.
Finding and first bark means the dog's ability to get a first bark from both the ground and in a tree, how effectively the dog can work the birds in the trial terrain.
Following means the dog rushing quickly after a bird that is either on the ground or in a tree in order to bark at the bird in question or to bark again if it is one that had flown away. A dog that follows well will usually rush quickly and dynamically after a bird and will follow for several hundreds of meters at a run, depending on the terrain. A dog which is good at following also uses his sense of smell and hearing.
A dog can get the following plus and minus points according the table below:
A Plus points
1 Work when searching
1.1 Search 0 - 10
1.2 Ability to find 0 - 15
2 Work when barking
2.1 Marking 0 - 10
2.2 Giving sound 0 - 5
2.3 Stopping from moving 0 - 20
3 Barking for the first time 0 - 10
4 Following and renewed barking
4.1 Following 0 - 10
4.2 Renewed barking 0 - 10
5 Finding in a tree 0 - 5
6 Additional merit points 0 - 5
___________________________________
Total 0 -100p.
B Minus points
- 1. Hypersensitivity 0-10p.
- 2. Stopping a bark before time 0-10p.
- 3. Other working disturbing the trial 0-10p.
____________________________________
Total 0-30p.
Renewed barking means that the dog has followed a bird or flock that had flown a reasonable distance away after he had barked at it previously and barks again.
A find in a tree means a situation where the dog finds a bird in a tree and barks at it. Any or all of the three senses, sight, hearing and smell will come into play here.
Additional points are given for the accuracy of the performance, the working ability and special skills that make the dog a good bird-hunting dog. Working with animals other than accepted game birds (such as hare, squirrel, elk) have an influence on the accuracy of the performance. Working ability can be seen in, for example, good searching and clearly correct pointing as well as cooperation with his owner. Social skills include things like finding the bird again when it has flown for a long distance as well as willingness and staying -power.
The dog can also be faulted when working with the birds. Sensitiveness means the dog making sounds without any visible reason, yelping at the scent of birds which have been either on the ground or in a tree but are no longer there or barking at a flying bird. A dog can break off from barking temporarily or even stop barking completely while the bird is still there. In these situations he will get minus points. Other things included in ‘interfering' with work include aggressive behavior when barking, reluctance to work and disobedience. Aggressive behavior when barking means scratching and biting the tree where the bird is as well as the dog jumping up against the tree or putting his paws against it.
For a dog to gain prizes in a trial it does not have to have performed in any sort of spectacular manner. The trial rules have been formed in such a way that a dog that works well in a regular hunting situation will also do well in a trial. A prize won at a trial is a kind of guarantee that the dog is a good worker.
Preparing the dog for a trial
A dog can only learn when it is working with birds. This is why you have to take your dog to a forest frequently. This does not mean that you should go and shoot a lot of birds over the dog. It is essential that the dog comes into contact with the birds, learns to search, learns to follow a bird that has flown off, learns to mark a bird in a correct way with its bark. A prerequisite for successful working is that the dog is in good physical condition before the hunting season starts. The dog must be fit enough to be able to continue working through a trial session or a hunt lasting for several hours.
A dog that is taken to trials must accept strangers joining the party. It is quite common for a dog that has only been to the forest with his master to look suspiciously at the judge who comes along with them the forest. It is therefore a good idea for the master to take a stranger with him on his hunting trips a few times. The dog will then learn that he is not always alone with his master in the forest. The Finnish Spitz is still by nature very much a ‘one man dog'.
Trials are kind of hunting but with no game in the rucksack at the end. The whole hunting experience has a different character. The main purpose is no longer the kill, but a good performance from the dog with as high marks as possible. After this, actual hunting will aim more at giving the dog practice for future competitions. The satisfaction comes from the dog's good performance and not from a rucksack full of game.
"I have a lot to thank my dogs for. They have taught me so much. We have enjoyed things together. Not always of a lot of game but so many great moments with the birds, joyful barks, many times just walking together." Erkki Tuominen
Points
OPEN CLASS
Prize AVO1 AVO2 AVO3
Points 70 60 45
WINNERS CLASS
Prize VOI 1 VOI 2 VOI 3
Points 75 65 50
Sources: Linnunhaukkukokeiden säännöt ja ohjeet 1998 (Regulations for bird barking trials)
Erkki Tuominen: Pikinokka, pystykorva. Suomalaisen pystykorvametsästyksen opas (Pitch-black nosed spitz. A guide to hunting with Finnish Spitz breeds)
Erkki Tuominen: Linnunhaukkukoe - pystykorvan metsästytaidon mittari (artikkeli Metsästäjä -lehdessä).(Bird barking trials - a measure to assess a spitz's hunting abilities)
Juha Rytilahti
A HIRV trial, what is it?
An elk barking trial is, at its best, a fine and interesting dog sport. Each day is different and full of events although sometimes the days become long. At the same time you can compare your own dog with the other dogs and so get a more realistic picture of what an elk dog should be like.
Elk barking trials aim at finding out the dogs' hunting characteristics for breeding purposes, maintain elk hunting as a dog sport of high standards, help those who take part in it to develop their skills and cooperation and offer opportunities for competing based on the regulations.
Right to participate
A hunting spitz that has won a prize in a dog show may take part (with the exception of a trial in the open class where no show results are required). The dog must be at least nine months old, have a microchip or tattoo and must be vaccinated according the regulations. Sick dogs, bitches in heat and pregnant bitches cannot take part.
There are two classes AVO (OPEN) and VOI (WINNERS). The dog must obtain one first prize in the open class before it can move up to the winners' class.
How to enter a trial
Usually entering a trial takes place some five days before the trial starts. It is best to enter in writing to the person nominated by the trial committee and whose contact information is printed in the trial calendar (in Koiramme - magazine or on the Internet either on the web pages of SPJ, SHHJ or SLJ). The trial organiser usually requires two judges to be named by each exhibitor and the dog owner will also transport them to the trial area on the morning of the trial.
Start of a trial
A member of the trial committee will greet all dog owners and judges in the morning. He will check that the paperwork is in order. The chairman of the trial committee opens the proceedings. Then follows a briefing by the chief judge where he sums up the regulations and conditions. The chief judge gives the general outlines for working in the forest. After the briefing there will be a draw for the terrain and the two judges (one of whom should know the terrain) who will go with each dog. If there is a need for guides in certain terrains the organisers will provide them. A guide is vital if the dog is to have the best chance of finding the elk.
Duration of the trial and the judging
A trial takes a day. A two-week trial in the open class lasts two weeks. However, a dog gets only one trial session in such a trial. All breeds taking part in the trial are judged in the same way.
Each dog must be given at least one four hour uninterrupted search session which can be prolonged if the dog still has the strength to continue the search. A dog can be judged for five hours at the most. Judging can be stopped when the group of judges and the dog's owner are unanimous in that it is not worth continuing the trial.
In the forest a group judge leads the trial but at the same time he listens to the wishes of the other judge and the dog's owner. The judges fill in their terrain cards independently but agree the time and distance together.
Filling in the trial card
The information on the first page is filled in first. Then the dog is let loose to start its search. The time the dog is let loose is marked on the card.
After this the search table, which is marked with spaces for every minute and half an hour on each line is filled. It goes up to a full hour.
A letter H is marked on the minute that the bark starts.
A mark: / is marked on the minute that contact is made with the dog, a letter K when the dog could be put on a lead.
The length of each search session should be marked so you will easily see how many and how long the search tours have been. Deviating tours are not taken into account when calculating the average.
If the dog searches clearly for more than half an hour repeatedly thus making it more difficult for the group to proceed forward, it should be noted in the remarks and additional information section: ‘searching in too wide an area'.
As soon as there is a find it should be marked with a / and above it the word löytö (find).
On the bottom of the front page there are two columns, in the first of which should be written concisely information about the dog's speed of search, breadth of search and how he uses his senses.
The other column is for notes on the circumstances of the find (the kind of wind, down-wind, cross-wind etc) and how long the search took.
When the dog has located the elk the dog's working ability should be noted on the inside of the card. Also a mark (/) should be put on the correct minute and the word löytö1 (find 1) written above it.
Starting from an hour, it continues in twenty-minute intervals. There is a small square to the left where the time for each event can be noted and the precise events are written in the part set aside for that purpose. Everything should be made clear so that even those who have not been there can clearly understand what has happened. On the right hand side of the grid there is a summary of the times and length of the search (abbreviated explanations).
An incessant bark is drawn with an uninterrupted line following the minutes, a disjointed bark with a broken line and a bark that keeps stopping with small circles. There is always a dash (/) to mark the start and end of an event.
It is also a nice custom to note, using the abbreviations AT1, AT2 etc., the opportunities for shooting had it not been a trial.
YO1, YO2 etc (contacting the dog).
K1, K2 etc. (chasing the elk away)
Abbreviations and running orders help in the end when making a summary of the trial's events.
If the trial ends before full time (300 minutes) it should be noted in the remarks and additional information column the reason why the trial was interrupted. There is a section for a summary of the trial events on the last page. A - Å is a section where a summary of trial's events is made. The section that needs ticking and the points that should be awarded can be checked in the book of regulations.
Using a radio transmitter
Most of the elk dogs wear a radio transmitter nowadays and this is an essential aid in both trials and hunting itself. In an elk trial you are allowed to follow your dog and search for him with the help of a radio transmitter under certain conditions, which are set out in the book of regulations.
The judging of an elk trial takes place on the following basis:
PLUS POINTS
- 1. Search speed 1-10x0.5 The speed and efficiency of the search.
- 2. Area of search 1-10x0.5 Range of travel from the group. A measure for this is the average time of searches with the deviating searches deducted.
- 3. Ability to finding 1-10x1 The dog's efficiency in finding an elk by moving and using its senses. Points of importance are: the time of search, the distance covered during the search, the length of the search which led to a find, distance between the dog and his find and the group, conditions of the terrain and the weather.
- 4. Locating journey 1-10x1 Is generally the distance between the place where the dog finds the elk and the group at that time. If the group should not hear the bark and they need to search for it, then the find journey is measured from where the dog is last seen to the place where the dog is found barking.
- 5. Locating bark 1-10x1 Meaning the dog's skill of keeping an elk where it was found.
- 6. The quality of barking 1-10x1 Proportion of standing and barking incessantly taken from the whole working session. The better the dog can keep the elk on the spot the better opportunities there will be to shoot it, which is of importance in practical hunting.
- 7. Following an elk that is running away 1-10x1 Meaning the dog's ability to follow a fleeing elk. If the dog follows the elk by swimming it should be given credit for this.
- 8. Stopping a fleeing elk 1-10x1 The dog's skill in stopping a fleeing elk and get a renewed incessant bark. Driving away the elk several times tests the dog's skills of following and stopping.
- 9. Time of barking 1-10x1 Incessant and fluctuating times of standing and barking are added together in minutes.
- 10. The loudness of the bark 1-10x0.5 The loudness of the dog's voice is being judged here. This can be measured by the distance.
- 11. The density and coverage of the bark 1-10x0.5 The density of the yelps in periods counted per minutes. Coverage meaning the evenness of the bark, its continuity as well as it being incessant.
- 12. Willingness to co-operate 1-10x0.5 Primarily the dog's spontaneously making contact with the group during the search and working. It is also accepted as making contact when the dog is called.
- 13. Obedience 1-10x0.5 How well the dog follows the instructions and requests its handler gives to him both during the search and when he is working the elk.
MINUS POINTS
- 1. Lack of enthusiasm and endurance 0-10x1 If the dog shows obvious lack of interest in working with an elk or it becomes clearly tired before the session should end then it should be given minus points.
- 2. Barking when following an elk 0-10x1 Because an elk dog is a dog who is supposed to stop the animal before barking (ie being a ‘standing barker) he is not allowed to drive an elk while barking.
- 3. Barking at or driving livestock or other cloven-hoofed animals 0-10x1 The regulations only allow for barking at an elk.
- 4. Barking at and driving of other game 0-10x1 See the previous point.
- 5. Lack of cooperation and disobedience 0-10x1 If the dog repeatedly leaves the group by going into the yards of houses, to cars etc. it must be given minus points. Likewise he should be punished if he does not allow his handler to put him on a lead even when he has stopped working with the elk.
All the above add to 100 points at the most.
Prizes
AVO (OPEN) class 1 = 65 points
" 2 = 55 points
" 3 = 45 points
VOI (WINNERS) class 1 = 70 points
" 2 = 60 points
" 3 = 50 points
Explaining the events in the trial
As soon as the group has filled in the cards and given the dog the points it deserves, including possible minus points, they go to the trial centre and show the cards to the chief judge to have them checked. The chief judge will ask for more information if anything is unclear and he makes sure that the points are consistent so that all the dogs in a particular trial are assessed by the same standards. This is how the dogs will be given the correct placing.
Closing the trial
The chairman of the trial committee will open the final meeting of the trial and he will give his views on the day from the point of view of an organiser. After that the chief judge will come forward and inform everyone of the most essential events of the day, not forgetting to give his thanks. Finally he announces the results and together with a representative of the trial committee hands out any prizes.
In conclusion
That was a short account of the events in an elk trial. I hope that there will be those who have not so far been involved with this kind of sport and whose interest has been kindled who will join us either as a dog handler or a judge. Courses for judges are organized all over the country mainly during August and September. Announcements of these are made as mentioned above (ie papers and Internet).
When you feel like taking your dog to a trial you could start by entering him in the open class in a long trial. That trial is planned mainly for beginners who might be a little shy or who cannot go to one-day events for some reason or another. There you will see what elk barking events are all about. You only have to contact the organizing association and they will tell you what to do.
I wish you rewarding trial events with plenty of barking!
Does your Finnish Spitz or your Nordic Spitz have an inclination to bark at elk?
The number of the Finnish Spitz and Nordic Spitz that bark at elk is very few. Information regarding every representative of these breeds who bark at elk is of importance to the Breed Advisory Group. SPJ has developed an unofficial TEST ASSESSING THE DOG'S INCLINATION TO BARK AT ELK. It is hoped that this will help in getting valuable information of the elk-working ability particularly of those dogs which don't take part in the elk trials for some reason or another.
If your dog barks at an elk with such perseverance that it is easy to shoot an elk then it is important that you fill in the form for this test explaining what he has done in this field so that he could possibly be used in breeding. You can take this test either during regular elk hunting or at a separate event in the presence of a judge and the dog owner.
Additional information and the test form are on the web pages of the SPJ: www.spj.fi > suomenpystykorva > hirvipystykorvat > hirvitaipumustesti.
The urge to hunt bear
In order to find out whether a dog has a talent for hunting bears we have developed a special kind of test which can be taken during the bear hunting season using a bear roaming free.
The test aims at finding out the attitude of the dog towards bear hunting for use in breeding and bear hunting, as well as testing the dogs in such a way that they can be used to help the authorities catch wounded or deranged bears.
Right to take part
All registered hunting spitz breeds and those breeds with special permission from the Board of the Finnish Kennel Club have the right to take this test. A dog which is ill or a bitch in season is not allowed to participate.
A pregnant bitch may participate neither 30 days before the expected time of delivery nor before 42 days after the birth of the puppies. Vaccinations and identification are as per the Finnish Kennel Club regulations. A dog that has passed the test is not allowed to take it again.
Entering the dog for the test
You should make the entry by telephone to the chief judge, who is nominated by the committee of the kennel district, as to where the test will start and when the assessment starts. The assessment is considered to have started when the dog is let loose on a bear trail or when the dog is discovered to be working on a bear trail.
Judges
The judges assess the dog in groups of two and the one who is the lead judge must have the judge's license for KARH (bear barking trials). The other judge can be a HIRV judge or a well-versed trial person. The group judge must be a member of the Finnish Kennel Club or a breed organisation (such as SPJ, SHHJ or SLJ).
The Finnish Kennel Club's general ethical rules to ensure there is no likelihood of bias, which are valid in the shows and trials as well as in other competitions, apply to the judges.
Trial terrain
The dog's handler finds the trial terrain. Before starting the trial you must make sure that there are bears there.
The test can be carried out when it has been found out that there are bears in the terrain or one supposes there might be a bear in there or when the dog is observed to be working on a bear trail.
Assessment
The test either approves or rejects a performance and neither points nor prizes are awarded. A bear barking inclination test can also be passed when the dog is on an elk barking trial. When the dog has broken off from an elk barking trial to take the bear barking inclination test it cannot go back to a HIRV trial.
It is important to give information!
It is important in the development of the inclination to bark at bears that news of all these events that have taken place reaches the Breed Advisory Group and all members. The inclination to bark at bears is noted in the breeding records.
When you see that your dog barks at a bear, always get a judge there and try to get a test result. If there is no judge available at the time but there is a dog person other than the dog's owner watching the event it can be published and recorded.
When the dog barks at a bear in the wild and there is no chance to fulfill the requirements of the test, the event can be filed for the records. The purpose of this is to get all the dogs with this potential to the attention of the Breed Advisory Group and breeders.
The form should be sent to Irma Haataja, Seikkulankuja 9, FIN-91900 LIMINNKA, tel mobile +358 (0)40 539 5288, irmahaataja@gmail.com
Forms and additional information available from: www.spj.fi > karjalankarhukoira
When things do not turn out as they should
Training a dog is not always easy and straightforward. The more time you devote to being with the puppy and doing things with him the better the outcome. Lack of training can cause problems when the dog is older.
All our national spitz breeds have independent characters and are basically one-man dogs. How well the owner succeeds in the training decides the dog's behavioral development for the future. Many dogs adapt and learn even with very little training but some strong-willed individuals need some ‘remedial education'.
Here are some hints for training your dog.
Getting your dog from the forest to the car
A dog with game in his blood is at home in the forest. After a short session or a day in a forest the dog does not want to be shut in a car but simply wants to carry on with what he was doing.
One solution is to have him on a lead before you get to the car, but when the dog becomes older he will remember where the car is and avoid making contact with you when you get nearer to it. If the dog comes closer but does not let you to take hold of him then the only way is to sit down a little further from the car and wait in silence. Sooner or later the dog will come to his master. Rewarding and praising him in this situation does a world of good.
If the dog hesitates when you call him then you should make the call more demanding. You should never yell at your dog, nor scold a dog that has come to you.
A dog belonging to a friend of mine did not want to be caught when they got to the car. My friend wanted to teach his dog a lesson and drove for some five kilometers with the dog running after him. After this the dog liked to ride in the car. This was, however, perhaps too effective a lesson because after that he always stopped barking at game if he heard his master's car.
A dog must be taught that the car is a means of getting to the hunting grounds. He always likes to get into a car at home because he can see from his master's clothing and equipment that a hunting trip is awaiting him. Putting a dog on a lead in a forest and then letting him go loose again immediately will reduce his aversion to being put on a lead. Likewise fear of getting into a car when you should be getting back home can be reduced by moving the car to another place nearby and letting the dog loose and back to the forest again.
Who is the boss - the dog or his master?
The dog's socialization is part of a puppy's training. Due to good breeding there are no vicious dogs in the Finnish hunting spitz breeds, although some individuals can have a very strong self will. By incorrect training any dog can behave in a manner that is not desirable.
By training a dog through play when he is still a puppy, his possessive and guarding instincts can be tempered and made such that he becomes socially acceptable. A bone or toy that the puppy has been given should be taken away and then given back with praise. All members of the family and also friends should do this. If the puppy shows aggression at this then you should press him against the floor by his neck. The bone or the toy should always remain in the dog's possession in the end. This is how he will learn that he hasn't lost anything.
Fallen or shot game are valuable spoils to the dog. The dog must learn at an early stage that the catch belongs to the master. A hunter who has gone hunting alone will not easily give up a bird he has shot to a stranger. This is a characteristic of our bird barking spitz and also a part of our ancient hunting culture and you cannot scold the dog for this.
Hunting an elk is more or less hunting with a hunting party. The elk is shot by whoever is standing on watch when the elk comes up to them and sometimes this is someone the dog does not know at all. Before hunting you should let him meet all the hunters in the party. If you take a young dog to get him used to an elk that has been shot, this is an excellent opportunity to acquaint him with all the other hunters.
If you shoot an elk from the dog's bark then you would be wise to put him on a lead before the other hunters arrive. Go and meet the others while at the same time praising your dog so that your dog will learn that the kill belongs to everyone.
Part of our hunting spitz's character is a certain stubbornness and guarding instinct. A dog will protect the kill against other dogs, the car against strangers and he wants to be the king in a show ring. You should not scold him for this characteristic behavior.
If the dog spends a rather a long time with the shot elk he may easily feel possessive towards it, particularly towards strangers. When you arrive at the kill you should call him from a distance so that you can gauge what kind of a mood he is in. A hunter is stupid if he tries to make his way to the kill by force when a strange dog is guarding it.
Never hit your dog. If you do the relationship between the dog and his master is ruined forever. You may still be the chief in the eyes of the one who has been subdued, but what about the others? There may be no return to the previous situation.
All national hunting spitz breeds are fine dogs. If you decide to get one and you have enough time to train him then you will gain an incorruptible and loyal friend.
Do you know about the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club's wines?
You can support our living cultural heritage, Finnish hunting spitz breeds, by, amongst other things, making the right choice of wine. The wines: METSO (capercaillie) and HIRVI (elk), bottled for the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club, go exceptionally well with game dishes or as a social drink on their own. A small percentage from the sale of each bottle goes to the Finnish Spitz Breeds Club so by ordering and buying these wines you will be supporting our national hunting Spitz Breeds: the Finnish Spitz, the Karelian Bear Dog and the Nordic Spitz.
METSO and HIRVI belong to a specific distributor, in other words they have to be ordered individually from off-licenses. In places where our members have been laudably active, you will find these wines on off-license shelves and often as a novelty item. When ordering wine from the off-license you will be asked for the reference numbers:
958167 Metso - Merlot (Dealul Mare, Romania)
958847 Hirvi - Pinotage Shiraz. (Western Cape, South Africa)
If you have not already sampled them, do try them and experience and enjoy their sophisticated taste.
FINNISH SPITZ BREEDS CLUB
(SUOMEN PYSTYKORVAJÄRJESTÖ - FINSKA SPETSKLUBBEN R.Y.)
Chairman:
Risto Ylitalo, Hankitie 8 A,
87500 Kajaani,
puh.044 274 8636
Secretary:
Pertti Korhonen, Nakertajantie
79, 87830 Nakertaja
p.(08) 613 2060, 0400 680 395
FINNISH SPITZ
Timo Kettunen, section chairman
Kuttulantie 89. 52700 Mäntyharju,
050 346 1841
BREED ADVISORY GROUP
Special permits and health matters
Reino Korpela, Chairman
Maunulankatu 2 62100 Lapua
06-438 7698, 040 849 9515
reino.korpela@netikka.fi
Silja Jokinen Vaiviontie 89
83450 Vaivio, 0400 181 407
LITTER INFORMATION
Sirpa Hokkanen
Riiskantie 8, 50670 Otava
Puh. 050 543 1223
Asko Ränkman
Kauklaistentie 73 27230 Lappi
Puh. (02)826 0491, 050 569 9221
BIRD TRIALS - chief instructors
Aku Karhunen, chairman Vipusenkatu 8
50100 Mikkeli 0400 256 025 akukarhunen@
saunalahti.fi
Jorma Ängeslevä, vice-chairman
Koskipuhdontie 214
84100 Ylivieska, 0400 572 715
jorma.angesleva@dnainternet.net
ELK TRIALS- Finnish Spitz co-ordinator
Seppo Tahvonen Kotaniementie 11
40800 Vaajakoski 0400 644 640
FOREIGN CORRESPONDENCE and LIAISON
Risto Tuomainen
Uittoniementie 19430 Pertunmaa
Puh. 015-681 191 0400-605 049
risto.p.tuomainen@pp.inet.fi
Finnish Kennel Club
Kamreerintie 8, 02770 ESPOO
puh. (09)887 300 klo 9-15
KARELIAN BEAR DOG
Vesa Väänänen, section chairman
Reijolantie 16, 80330 Reijola, 0400
577 211, v.vaananen@kolumbus.fi
karhukoirat@karhu.koillismaa.fi
BREED ADVISORY GROUP
Special permits and health matters
Jorma Tahkola, Chairman
Koiravuorentie 9, 43900 Kinnula
014-485 429, 040 750 0246
Jukka Puominen, Vice-Chairman
Juhanintie 50, 97700 Ranua
0400 178 417
jukka.puominen@pp.inet.fi
Seppo Komulainen, Puistolantie
2B, 89600 Suomussalmi, 0400 759
363 seppo.komulainen@elisanet.fi
LITTER INFORMATION
Marko Soini Taipaleentie 110,
23660 Kalanti as, 040 761 1111,
ELK & BEAR TRIALS -
Chief Instructors
Eero Raiskio, pj, Virtasentie 150
39820 Kihniö, (03)442 9236
ee.raiskio@ippnet.fi
Anssi Liimatainen, vpj, Mäntytie 1,
44300 Konnevesi, 0400 916 313
anssi.liimatainen@luukku.com
Veli-Matti Huhtala, Niskanperäntie
17, 96700 Rovaniemi, 040 554 6492
veli-matti.huhtala@lshp.fi
Yrjö Eronen, Hattuvaarantie 26 A 1
81650 Hattuvaara, 013-534 157
rajakontio@susiraja.net
Jussi Merelä, Keskuslaitoksentie
24, 45740 Kuusankoski, 040 538
0316, jussi.merela@luukku.com
ELK & BEAR TRIALS - rule committee
as Chief Instructors plus
Jouko Engelberg
FOREIGN CORRESPONDENCE and LIAISON
Nordic Elk (hunting) dog Union
Jouko Engelberg, Ilvangantie 119
37500 Lempäälä, 0400 202 445
jouko.engelberg@europorssi.com
NORDIC SPITZ
Jari Lehtonen, section chairman
Leppäkuja 1 91100 Ii, 040 535 4476
BREED ADVISORY GROUP
Special permits and health matters
Kari Rantala, Chairman
Varusentie 15 61600 Jalasjärvi ,
0500 770 588 kari_rantala@netikka.fi
Juha Sahlström, Vice-Chairman
Salmenrannantie 93D, 74520
Iisalmi, 0400 752 969
LITTER INFORMATION
Timo Järvinen
Aarteenetsijänkuja 10 B 14
00970 Helsinki, 050 563 8811,
Kuuskanta@netti.fi
Ensio Lehisto
Marjakuja 15 90460 Oulunsalo,
0400 286 311
FOREIGN CORRESPONDENCE and LIAISON
Inkeri Kangasvuo, Käpälämäki Kittiläntie
8415, 99800 Ivalo
016-673 300, samans@saunalahti.fi
COMMITTEE CHAIRMEN
SHOW COMMITTEE
Pekka Teini,
Salomaankatu 10, 29200 Harjavalta,
0400 858 292 pekka.teini@pp.inet.fi
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Kylätie 27A, 96900 Saarenkylä,
0400 894 936
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Heidi Lahtinen
Kattilajoentie 324,
81295 Haapalahti, 050 543 0198
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Anne-Mari Tiainen, Korpiseläntie 2
a, 82850 Kinnasniemi, 050 569 8192
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40500 Jyväskylä, 040 828 1489
Online shop: www.haukku.net
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